Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #62085
From: Neil Unger <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: New psru
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2015 08:19:06 +1000
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Charlie,   The 250 hp prop was a Prince P tip 70 inch dia with a 90 inch pitch.  My renesis P port is supposed to produce the 250 HP.  To be honest, Bull droppings!!  I then bought a whirlwind ground adjustable expecting a huge improvement.  Nope, did not happen, in fact I think it was worse.  That prop has a max HP of 200 and with the setting at the usual man. specs ( I cannot recall) I did get close to 7500 rpm,  so with calculations on the back of an envelope, it would appear that the P ported renesis is developing somewhere around the 210 HP max.  at 1000 feet above sea level.  Now in hindsight I believe that the Prince prop is equal to better (marginally) than the Ground adjustable and significantly cheaper. 
    My aim of 8000 rpm is solely for take off HP, and then will be extremely happy with 5500 to 6000 for cruise, or less.  No never did get the engine onto a dyno due to difficulties in attaching quickly, so what hp I have is it, and basically guess work.  Still working on a second engine to replace the existing one.  I have improved the cooling drag second time around, and narrowed the frontal area quite a lot.  Part of this was to get Jeff Doddridge  to alter his mounting plate to make the mounts equidistant from the prop centreline.  The only other alteration I think should be done is to move the starter over to the RH side of the motor to get it away from that hot exhaust.  It never ends.  Neil.
 
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2015 1:15 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New psru
 
I understand about debugging what you've got, before going off in a new direction. That's why I hated to bring it up now. :-)

The prop doesn't know how fast the engine is turning; it just knows how fast *it* is turning, and how fast it's moving through the air. I think that the problems start when the prop carver gets out of his comfort zone, which is 2700 design rpm and around 72" maximum diameter (usually less). When diameter goes up to 74"-76" and design rpm starts to drop, they seem to get a bit confused.  For those of us who never expect to exceed 7500 rpm, with cruise down around 5500-6000, a 3.12 ratio would mean prop at 2400 rpm max, and around 1900 at cruise. Nothing wrong with that if we could swing a 7 foot diameter prop, but with small, short legged a/c, you just can't do it.

I couldn't find anything in my old emails about the prop you had problems with. What were its specs & mfgr? Was the 6000 rpm static, or full throttle in flight at low altitude? Did you ever get your engine on a dyno? I know what Lamar claimed for his p-port Renesis, but if those were 'corrected' dyno numbers, they are pretty useless for real world flying at higher than sea level and anything above 'standard day' temperatures (which almost never happens). 250 HP seems pretty optimistic for a normally aspirated 2 rotor actually flying in an a/c, but I hope you can get it working. I've been very tempted to find another Renesis core & send the housings out to get them p-ported, & if you're successful, you just might push me over the edge...

Charlie



On 9/17/2015 11:17 PM, Neil Unger wrote:
Charlie,  As usual anything is possible.  The 2.85 ratio is easier to alter the gear set , but by the time the “little” mods are done the cost climbs yet again.  May look at the possibility as all the drawings are done and alterations are now much simpler.  Will get the bugs out of this one first.  Most prop makers that I went to just do not want to hear “rotary”.  The revs are there but the torque is not compared to a lyc.  Much to learn in this area.  Regards,  neil.
 
Sent: Friday, September 18, 2015 12:44 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New psru
 
Hi Neil,
 
Congrats on your progress; it looks nice.  I like the idea of being able to source some of the parts locally, given that international shipping can cost more than a lot of parts.
 
The damper issue is a real bummer. IIRC, Tracy's been running a later version of his 2.85 directly coupled to an aluminum racing flywheel. One or two others have used light weight steel flywheels, but I think they were still using Tracy's damper mechanism, which doesn't look too complicated to build with precision machine tools that you obviously have access to.
 
I know you'll hate to hear this question, but....are there provisions to use the 2.85 ratio in your design? The reason I ask is that many of us have no desire to turn the engine beyond 7500 rpm, and that wide ratio means cruise rpm at the prop of well below 2000 rpm. Most of us are flying planes that can't swing the 7-8 foot diameter prop needed to maintain efficiency at those low prop rpms. It also complicates getting a prop made that will perform correctly, since it's outside the area where most prop makers have worked. It's confused some reputable prop makers here in the USA, even with the 2.85 ratio.
 
Again, congrats on the new design,
 
Charlie
 
On Wed, Sep 16, 2015 at 11:28 PM, Neil Unger <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Gents,
              Finally the first PSRU with a reduction of 3.12  to 1.  Pictured is the basic box which is heavily based on Tracy’s PSRU but with the larger reduction and 2 oil lubricated thrust   bearings on the prop shaft instead of a single sealed roller bearing in Tracy’s.  This psru will mount directly in place of Tracy's 2.85 reduction PSRU with no modification.
    Now to put to test to see if the practice matches the theory.  Already found one fault. The “O” ring seal that seals the main body of the PSRU to the base that attaches to the mounting plate is outside all the attachment bolts, which means that the oil can wick down the bolts and make a lovely mess of your pride and joy.  Now looking for more faults as this is easily fixed.  Unlike Tracy's , this PSRU is totally sealed with O rings to ease dismantling with no clean up of whatever gasket sealer you have had to use.
    Now the terrible part and still undecided as I am yet to cost a damper on the drive.  Sadly it also is not cheap and may yet cost near $500 for a ”bit of rubber”.  Then comes a mounting plate as made by Geoff Doddridge which he sells for around $400 USD.  There is no point in me trying to compete with Geoff as he does a magnificent job at a cheap price.  Freight is always a horrible price so he makes the plate and there is  no freight from Aust to be added.
    The total cost in Aust dollars (including Geoff’s plate) will be around the $5000 which equates to $3500 USD.  Then freight of possibly $200.  Currently looking at further reduction in price if you source the gear set locally saving on freight both ways to Aust and back.  I will have to alter the way it is constructed so that all the mods can be done by you the builder.  Still looking!
    So far the progress.  Neil.

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