X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: "James Osborn" Received: from mail-la0-f53.google.com ([209.85.215.53] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.10) with ESMTPS id 7228730 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 15:44:21 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.215.53; envelope-from=rxcited@gmail.com Received: by mail-la0-f53.google.com with SMTP id gq15so1752177lab.12 for ; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:43:47 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=eMmZvrWQo4V9MMDv+9s0A/fB4Krglqpqj1Kl4R6tdpA=; b=K+jAVBvk6YgsTSnXMgtMVV4FcqNmYYZQ4oZSW+Lbux9In7KOTeWw5YuBqQYtg7/Qwe yqdXgTgyqOviZvnptFbuO85BD2lVgaJVU+Ncru9Xej1+HY05+Dqdx7P5toCDlb3RWWlI dePMmuBALffZP7v1Tl8dXeN/dFAZVsBW2yy6Jqsv2C/B/IGJtq6xnSIeaoOiUtRtjlhz LXVJ2rrnlJYPj0KT1SGRLka37kvq/7Fek2BAvMLkl2H9o3esPbFJO6MqBr2zTSE4UYcD azywy5qjEECBBiYHgFGVRfumjQTGkSEx/5y/C3+Mfx/a477nrinh454XObt90HQDl66q 0ZYA== MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.112.11.133 with SMTP id q5mr36936877lbb.77.1413920627198; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:43:47 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.25.136.70 with HTTP; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:43:47 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:43:47 -0700 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=001a11c3bba0b9909e0505f40cf3 --001a11c3bba0b9909e0505f40cf3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Another idea which I use on my RX7 is to use "the right stuff" (a black silicone gasket maker) when installing hoses and clamps. It makes a pretty good bond, but if/when the hose needs to be removed, you can wiggle a dull screwdriver in to free it up. -- James On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 12:36 PM, Charlie England < flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote: > The bends I've bought came with the ends already beaded, but some don't, > so Mark makes a good point. > > I think you can achieve the same desired result with modified dimple dies > in a rivet squeezer. The bead is just there to keep the hose from sliding > off, & a series of 'bumps' around the tube in the same place as a bead wi= ll > achieve the same effect. It's ugly, but it will be under makeup (the hose > end), so who cares? > > Charlie > > > On 10/21/2014 2:06 PM, Mark Steitle wrote: > > Jeff, > This probably goes without saying, but I have to ask anyway. I'm > assuming you put beads on all of the radiator connections? Commercial > radiators normally come with beaded fittings. I'm more curious about the > sweep L's and other pieces of tubing in your system. I am aware of at lea= st > one rotary a/c that made an emergency landing after having a hose blow of= f > in flight. If not, Earl's Supply sells beading tools that do a pretty fa= ir > job for the price. > > Mark > > On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn > wrote: > >> I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using mandrel bent 90 >> and 180 degrees. >> >> Richard Sohn >> N2071U >> >> http://www.fairpoint.net/~res12/home.html >> >> *From:* Charlie England >> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM >> *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft >> *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup >> >> This one shows the rad returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" >> silicone transition on the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree >> mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects t= o >> the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happ= y >> with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it. >> Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter= . >> There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer sh= ip >> to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world). >> >> On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote: >> >> This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom >> fitting. >> >> On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote: >> >> Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube >> is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone hose. It >> will stretch quite a bit. >> >> This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1". >> >> On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote: >> >> Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list size limits. >> >> I bought most of my stuff from >> http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ >> and >> http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ >> >> Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are >> several sites with pretty good prices. >> >> Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their silicone >> bends. For same-size couplers, you can just buy a length of hose & cut i= t >> into couplers (see radiator input pic). >> >> I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I packed the >> tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe >> bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical >> conduit is relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker walls)= . >> >> Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per foot. >> Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of silicone hose isn't that >> much more expensive and it can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask= me >> how I know.... >> >> Charlie >> >> On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote: >> >> Hello Doug: >> >> The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any fittings onto it. My >> method may not save you any money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue >> silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump >> inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One elbow is 1.5=E2=80=9D to 1.5= =E2=80=9D, 90 degree >> and the other is 1.75=E2=80=9D to 1.5=E2=80=9D, 45 degree to match the r= adiator. In >> between is 1.5=E2=80=9D aluminum straight or elbow tubing. Jeff >> >> >> >> From: >> >> mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net >> >> Subject: >> >> FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup >> >> Date: >> >> Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400 >> >> To: >> >> flyrotary@lancaironline.net >> >> [image: Message Header] >> >> >> [image: Undecoded Message] >> >> >> Jeff: >> >> Do you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your Griffin >> radiator, etc. I am thinking of doing something similar for my 9A w/13B >> since I really don't want to spend $1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN >> fittings, hose, etc. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Doug Lomheim >> RV-9A 13B FWF >> >> >> This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for >> the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. An= y >> unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received thi= s >> message in error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct ou= r >> internal records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you. >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> -- >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive and UnSub: >> http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html >> >> -- >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> Archive and UnSub: >> http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html >> >> > > --001a11c3bba0b9909e0505f40cf3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Another idea which I use on my RX7 is to use "the rig= ht stuff" (a black silicone gasket maker) when installing hoses and cl= amps.=C2=A0 It makes a pretty good bond, but if/when the hose needs to be r= emoved, you can wiggle a dull screwdriver in to free it up.

<= div>-- James

On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 12:36 PM, Charlie England = <flyrot= ary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
=20 =20 =20
The bends I've bought came with the ends already beaded, but some don't, so Mark makes a good point. =

I think you can achieve the same desired result with modified dimple dies in a rivet squeezer. The bead is just there to keep the hose from sliding off, & a series of 'bumps' around t= he tube in the same place as a bead will achieve the same effect. It's ugly, but it will be under makeup (the hose end), so who cares?

Charlie


On 10/21/2014 2:06 PM, Mark Steitle wrote:
Jeff,
This=C2=A0probably goes without saying, but I have to ask anyway.=C2=A0=C2=A0I'm assuming=C2=A0you put beads on all of = the radiator connections?=C2=A0Commercial radiators normally come with beaded fittings.=C2=A0 I'm more curious about the sweep=C2=A0L's= and other pieces of tubing in your system. I am aware of at least one rotary a/c that made an emergency landing after=C2=A0having a hose=C2=A0blow off in flight.=C2=A0 If not, Earl's Supply sel= ls beading tools that do a pretty fair job for the price.
=C2=A0
Mark =C2=A0

On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using mandrel bent 90 and 180 degrees.
=C2=A0
=C2=A0
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup
=C2=A0
This one shows the rad returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transit= ion on the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer ship to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).

On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked = up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.

On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. = The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.

This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1".

On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list size limits.

I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/

Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are several sites with pretty good prices.

Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you can just buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator input pic).

I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker walls).

Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per foot.=C2=A0 Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know....

Charlie

On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:

Hello Doug:

The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any fittings onto it.=C2=A0 My method may not save you any money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my engine.=C2=A0 One elbow is 1.5=E2=80=9D to 1.5=E2=80=9D, = 90 degree and the other is 1.75=E2=80=9D to 1.5=E2=80=9D,= 45 degree to match the radiator.=C2=A0 In between is 1.5= =E2=80=9D aluminum straight or elbow tubing.=C2=A0=C2= =A0 Jeff

=C2=A0

From:

ma= ilto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net

Subject:

FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup

Date:

Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400

To:

fl= yrotary@lancaironline.net

3D"M=
3D"Undecoded

Jeff:

Do you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your Griffin radiator, etc.=C2=A0= I am thinking of doing something similar for my 9A w/13B since I really don't want to spend $1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings, hose, etc.

Thanks.

Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF

=C2=A0

This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. Any unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct our internal records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you.




--
Homepage:=C2=A0 http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:=C2=A0=C2=A0 http://mai= l.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html

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