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I did attend the EAA TIG Welding Shop in Griffin GA. That made the whole
difference.
Richard
Sohn
N2071U
http://www.fairpoint.net/~res12/home.html
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 1:38 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator
Setup
But Richard, that implies a detour from building to
actually learning to use that high-dollar TIG machine that's hiding under
a tarp in the hangar....
On 10/21/2014 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn
wrote:
I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using mandrel bent 90 and
180 degrees.
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator
Setup
This one shows the rad returning to the engine.
There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on the block (same as output on
top), a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and
that connects to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic).
I'm not happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched
it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter.
There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer ship
to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).
On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM,
Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to
the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.
On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie
England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top
fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of
1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.
This shows a
transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1".
On 10/21/2014
9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to
list size limits. I bought most of my stuff from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/and http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Also,
check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are several
sites with pretty good prices. Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends
are much cheaper than their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you
can just buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator
input pic). I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even
if I packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor
Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can stand the loss of
flow area, AL electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend without
collapsing it (thicker walls). Silicone hose seems to cost
anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per foot. Tubing looks prettier, but
a continuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it
can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I
know.... Charlie On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley
wrote:
Hello Doug:
The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any
fittings onto it. My method may not save you any money though,
as I bought expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate
with the stock 1.5 inch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my
engine. One elbow is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is
1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator. In between is
1.5” aluminum straight or elbow tubing.
Jeff
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Jeff:
Do
you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your
Griffin radiator, etc. I am thinking of doing something
similar for my 9A w/13B since I really don't want to spend $1K
on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings, hose, etc.
Thanks.
Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF
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