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Thanks, David; it's a -7.
On 10/21/2014 2:21 PM, hoursaway1 wrote:
Hey
Charlie is this a RV7 or 9? Looking good. David
From: "Fly
rotary blog, e-mail" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: "Fly rotary blog, e-mail"
<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 11:12:37 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust
and Radiator Setup
This one shows the rad returning
to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on
the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree mandrel bend
(that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects to
the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic).
I'm not happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round
when I stretched it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135
degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter. There are a couple of
ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer ship to
the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).
On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting
to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.
On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in
previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1"
OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone
hose. It will stretch quite a bit.
This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1
1/4" to 1".
On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple
emails, due to list size limits.
I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone
bends. There are several sites with pretty good
prices.
Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than
their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you can
just buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers
(see radiator input pic).
I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even
if I packed the tubing with sand prior to bending
& used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender.
However, if you can stand the loss of flow area, AL
electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend without
collapsing it (thicker walls).
Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to
$20 per foot. Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous
run of silicone hose isn't that much more expensive
and it can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask
me how I know....
Charlie
On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:
Hello Doug:
The radiator is 100% stock; I
did not weld any fittings onto it. My method may
not save you any money though, as I bought
expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to
mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump
inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One elbow
is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is 1.75”
to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator. In
between is 1.5” aluminum straight or elbow
tubing. Jeff
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Jeff:
Do you have any shots of the fittings
you had welded onto your Griffin
radiator, etc. I am thinking of doing
something similar for my 9A w/13B since
I really don't want to spend $1K on a
bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings,
hose, etc.
Thanks.
Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF
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