X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: "Charlie England" Received: from mail-pd0-f171.google.com ([209.85.192.171] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.10) with ESMTPS id 7228685 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 15:29:15 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.192.171; envelope-from=ceengland7@gmail.com Received: by mail-pd0-f171.google.com with SMTP id ft15so1956056pdb.30 for ; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:28:42 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=message-id:date:from:user-agent:mime-version:to:subject:references :in-reply-to:content-type; bh=l+MRG7BR+2i4T0jTo1+XfKUdTxEPcSmUpOHYnOrodHo=; b=O6mW8KwLa4mjD7SQ37IWVL+DNdmkDSFSKjaGkJf3O35UtFs+jsG9j14t6mq9NVj5z4 m9ECxZtELB4j9GasbiNQE3Q9wXrMSTfFLPmIv0nw8vCf4v5uHAa0GrgWOL5GNaB/kVW8 u/FgVZ1NqpoLX+/0vIHqS4juHfjdyAIJTyIbBIdZSiedpstxC7IAilMkHRGPbekMlapb ZInmKuuu6E6uwRWa8XgOkkK3aimB4qfnIdqBR3Ey+kjownnjf773IJGz/dRuXTjVAxGw grD0nUG1XoZCFHl76mt59SSTYpNacV85nL8UV9+RuReunsW3JNoTTyJsGVxCetHN+ICN kWOQ== X-Received: by 10.70.87.168 with SMTP id az8mr37533500pdb.55.1413919721595; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:28:41 -0700 (PDT) Return-Path: Received: from ?IPv6:2602:306:25fb:99:2cb0:2e01:346:4921? ([2602:306:25fb:99:2cb0:2e01:346:4921]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPSA id y1sm12451450pbw.89.2014.10.21.12.28.38 for (version=TLSv1 cipher=ECDHE-RSA-RC4-SHA bits=128/128); Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <5446B45E.1040006@gmail.com> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 14:30:38 -0500 User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0 MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------000708010205080307010800" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------000708010205080307010800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Thanks, David; it's a -7. On 10/21/2014 2:21 PM, hoursaway1 wrote: > Hey Charlie is this a RV7 or 9? Looking good. David > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Fly rotary blog, e-mail" > *To: *"Fly rotary blog, e-mail" > *Sent: *Tuesday, October 21, 2014 11:12:37 AM > *Subject: *[FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup > > This one shows the rad returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" > silicone transition on the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree > mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects > to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not > happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched > it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" > diameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & > no longer ship to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world). > > On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad > bottom fitting. > > On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 > 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of > 1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit. > > This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1". > > On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list size limits. > > I bought most of my stuff from > http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ > and > http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ > > Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone > bends. There are several sites with pretty good prices. > > Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than > their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you can just > buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator > input pic). > > I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I > packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a > Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can > stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical conduit is > relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker walls). > > Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 > per foot. Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of > silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can > get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know.... > > Charlie > > On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote: > > Hello Doug: > > The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any > fittings onto it. My method may not save you any > money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue silicone > hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 inch > water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One > elbow is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is > 1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator. In > between is 1.5” aluminum straight or elbow tubing. Jeff > > From: > > > > > > Subject: > > > > FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup > > Date: > > > > Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400 > > To: > > > > flyrotary@lancaironline.net > > > > Message Header > > > Undecoded Message > > > Jeff: > > Do you have any shots of the fittings you had welded > onto your Griffin radiator, etc. I am thinking of > doing something similar for my 9A w/13B since I really > don't want to spend $1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece > AN fittings, hose, etc. > > Thanks. > > Doug Lomheim > RV-9A 13B FWF > > This message, and the documents attached hereto, is > intended only for the addressee and may contain > privileged or confidential information. Any > unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you > have received this message in error, please notify us > immediately so that we may correct our internal > records. Please then delete the original message. > Thank you. > > > > > > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > --------------000708010205080307010800 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="------------040108040101010505080306" --------------040108040101010505080306 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Thanks, David; it's a -7.

On 10/21/2014 2:21 PM, hoursaway1 wrote:
Hey Charlie is this a RV7 or 9?  Looking good.  David


From: "Fly rotary blog, e-mail" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: "Fly rotary blog, e-mail" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 11:12:37 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup

This one shows the rad returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer ship to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).

On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.

On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.

This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1".

On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list size limits.

I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/

Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are several sites with pretty good prices.

Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you can just buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator input pic).

I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker walls).

Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per foot.  Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know....

Charlie

On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:

Hello Doug:

The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any fittings onto it.  My method may not save you any money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my engine.  One elbow is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is 1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator.  In between is 1.5” aluminum straight or elbow tubing.   Jeff

 

From:

<flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

Subject:

FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup

Date:

Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400

To:

flyrotary@lancaironline.net

Message Header

Undecoded Message

Jeff:

Do you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your Griffin radiator, etc.  I am thinking of doing something similar for my 9A w/13B since I really don't want to spend $1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings, hose, etc.

Thanks.

Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF

 

This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. Any unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct our internal records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you.





--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


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