Hey Charlie is this a RV7 or 9? Looking good. David

<= B>From: "Fly rotary blog, e-mail" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>To: "Fly rotary blog, e-mail" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net><= BR>Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 11:12:37 AM
Subject: [F= lyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup

This one shows the rad returning to the engine= . There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on the block (same as output o= n top), a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), a= nd that connects to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous p= ic). I'm not happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stre= tched it. Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" d= iameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no= longer ship to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).

On 10/21= /2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:

This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up = to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.

On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie En= gland wrote:

Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad to= p fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece o= f 1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.

This shows a trans= ition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1".

On 10/21/2014 9:56 = AM, Charlie England wrote:

Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list= size limits.

I bought most of my stuff from
http= ://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.ve= rociousmotorsports.com/

Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends = and silicone bends. There are several sites with pretty good prices.
Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their silicone bends= . For same-size couplers, you can just buy a length of hose & cut it in= to couplers (see radiator input pic).

I had no luck bending thinwall= AL tubing myself, even if I packed the tubing with sand prior to bending &= amp; used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can stand= the loss of flow area, AL electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend wi= thout collapsing it (thicker walls).

Silicone hose seems to cost any= where from $5 (1") to $20 per foot. Tubing looks prettier, but a cont= inuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can get d= one in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know....

Charlie
On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:

Hello Doug:

The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any fitting= s onto it. My method may not save you any money though, as I bought e= xpensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 i= nch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One elbow is 1.5= =E2=80=9D to 1.5=E2=80=9D, 90 degree and the other is 1.75=E2=80=9D to 1.5= =E2=80=9D, 45 degree to match the radiator. In between is 1.5=E2=80= =9D aluminum straight or elbow tubing. Jeff

= From:

= <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>

= Subject:

= FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup

= Date:

= Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400

= To:

= flyrotary@lancaironline.net

=

Jeff:

Do you have any shots of the fittin= gs you had welded onto your Griffin radiator, etc. I am thinking of d= oing something similar for my 9A w/13B since I really don't want to spend $= 1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings, hose, etc.

Thanks.
=
Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF
<= /TD>

This message, and the documents attach= ed hereto, is intended only for the addressee and may contain privileged or= confidential information. Any unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibit= ed. If you have received this message in error, please notify us immediatel= y so that we may correct our internal records. Please then delete the origi= nal message. Thank you.

=

--
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
Arc= hive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/Lis= t.html