X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com From: "Mark Steitle" Received: from mail-ig0-f174.google.com ([209.85.213.174] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.10) with ESMTPS id 7228522 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 15:07:19 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.213.174; envelope-from=msteitle@gmail.com Received: by mail-ig0-f174.google.com with SMTP id a13so1984053igq.7 for ; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:06:45 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=o2tfQtCsg4pYy3fJ/dO9TKQSou/UXWGWbJJGcoCGsro=; b=ScSc3V4EnDE5vBfk/FtkJVpWnJPX2mRF2Q9fVlz/x4GL2j5+Va1xr9ZwE7OyDceuF3 LFRaakU+DPvtresTrdh0FRme68c0LQcjl1/Vh1B1cuU6Q3oCdcQWB2nbB3Twuu+b4tKC U8yr3vU4lC4PtBQdxG3lcpG3Rdp0veJjN0klr0KfjP/pekkiemvmHtOR/Vg76P3Mc7Ca IixL5ikJDUHzgbNz4rdHxSp94776EuzTyE9HsvorrJgTXq7AEhACyKE8dQoOM0mBULqL q10XCcURCoOwsfdMaCeciZXCMLdg80N6t3o/MiUPQ8pnBRa2nzQ7z1CItsFG+OZOd1gB WNKA== MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.43.64.210 with SMTP id xj18mr186570icb.46.1413918403713; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:06:43 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.107.152.195 with HTTP; Tue, 21 Oct 2014 12:06:43 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 14:06:43 -0500 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=bcaec51ddb3b3206f20505f3883c --bcaec51ddb3b3206f20505f3883c Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Jeff, This probably goes without saying, but I have to ask anyway. I'm assuming you put beads on all of the radiator connections? Commercial radiators normally come with beaded fittings. I'm more curious about the sweep L's and other pieces of tubing in your system. I am aware of at least one rotary a/c that made an emergency landing after having a hose blow off in flight. If not, Earl's Supply sells beading tools that do a pretty fair job for the price. Mark On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn wrote: > I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using mandrel bent 90 > and 180 degrees. > > Richard Sohn > N2071U > > http://www.fairpoint.net/~res12/home.html > > *From:* Charlie England > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup > > This one shows the rad returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" > silicone transition on the block (same as output on top), a 180 degree > mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects to > the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happy > with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it. > Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" diameter. > There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer ship > to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world). > > On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom > fitting. > > On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is > ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone hose. It will > stretch quite a bit. > > This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1". > > On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote: > > Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list size limits. > > I bought most of my stuff from > http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ > and > http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/ > > Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are > several sites with pretty good prices. > > Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their silicone > bends. For same-size couplers, you can just buy a length of hose & cut it > into couplers (see radiator input pic). > > I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I packed the > tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe > bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical > conduit is relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker walls). > > Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per foot. Tubing > looks prettier, but a continuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more > expensive and it can get done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I > know.... > > Charlie > > On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote: > > Hello Doug: > > The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld any fittings onto it. My > method may not save you any money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue > silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump > inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One elbow is 1.5" to 1.5", 90 degree > and the other is 1.75" to 1.5", 45 degree to match the radiator. In > between is 1.5" aluminum straight or elbow tubing. Jeff > > > > From: > > mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net > > Subject: > > FW: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator Setup > > Date: > > Mon, 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400 > > To: > > flyrotary@lancaironline.net > > [image: Message Header] > > > [image: Undecoded Message] > > > Jeff: > > Do you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your Griffin > radiator, etc. I am thinking of doing something similar for my 9A w/13B > since I really don't want to spend $1K on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN > fittings, hose, etc. > > Thanks. > > Doug Lomheim > RV-9A 13B FWF > > > This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended only for the > addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. Any > unauthorized disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received this > message in error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct our > internal records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you. > > > > > > ------------------------------ > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > > -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > Archive and UnSub: > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > --bcaec51ddb3b3206f20505f3883c Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jeff,
This probably goes without sayi= ng, but I have to ask anyway.  I'm assuming you put bead= s on all of the radiator connections? Commercial radiators normally co= me with beaded fittings.  I'm more curious about the sweep L&= #39;s and other pieces of tubing in your system. I am aware of at least one= rotary a/c that made an emergency landing after having a hose bl= ow off in flight.  If not, Earl's Supply sells beading tools that = do a pretty fair job for the price.
 
Mark   =

On Tu= e, Oct 21, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn <flyrotary@lancaironlin= e.net> wrote:
I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using mandrel bent 90 a= nd=20 180 degrees.
 
 
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <= /div>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiato= r=20 Setup
 
This one shows the rad returning to the engine.=20 There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on the block (same= as output on top),=20 a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that= =20 connects to the hose coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I&#= 39;m not=20 happy with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it.= =20 Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1" di= ameter. There=20 are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the UK & no longer shi= p to the=20 USA (I guess we are the new 3rd world).

On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Char= lie=20 England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be hooked up to=20 the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.

On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charli= e England=20 wrote:
Forgot to mention: in previous pic, the rad top=20 fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone coupler is ju= st a piece of=20 1" silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.

This shows = a=20 transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to 1".

= On 10/21/2014=20 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple emails, due to list=20 size limits.

I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.= com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/

Also,=20 check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends. There are sever= al=20 sites with pretty good prices.

Silicone Intakes' mandrel b= ends are=20 much cheaper than their silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you c= an=20 just buy a length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator in= put=20 pic).

I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if= I=20 packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a Harbor Frei= ght=20 hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow are= a, AL=20 electrical conduit is relatively easy to bend without collapsing it= =20 (thicker walls).

Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 = (1")=20 to $20 per foot.  Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of= =20 silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can get done = in=20 minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know....

Charlie
On=20 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:
=20 =20 =20

Hello Doug:

The radiator is 100% stock; I did not weld a= ny=20 fittings onto it.  My method may not save you any money though= , as=20 I bought expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate wi= th=20 the stock 1.5 inch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my=20 engine.  One elbow is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and = the other is=20 1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator.  I= n between is 1.5”=20 aluminum straight or elbow tubing.   Jeff

 

From:<= /span>

mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline= .net

Subject:

FW:=20 Getting There, New Exhaust and Radiator=20 Setup

Date:<= /span>

Mon,=20 20 Oct 2014 13:07:28 -0400

To:

flyrotary@lancaironline.net

3D"M=

3D"Undecoded

Jeff:

Do= =20 you have any shots of the fittings you had welded onto your= =20 Griffin radiator, etc.  I am thinking of doing something= =20 similar for my 9A w/13B since I really don't want to spen= d $1K on=20 a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings, hose, etc.=20

Thanks.

Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF <= span>

 

This message, = and the=20 documents attached hereto, is intended only for the addressee and m= ay=20 contain privileged or confidential information. Any unauthorized=20 disclosure is strictly prohibited. If you have received this messag= e in=20 error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct our inte= rnal=20 records. Please then delete the original message. Thank you.=20




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Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and=20 UnSub:  =20 http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


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Homepage:  htt= p://www.flyrotary.com/
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