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But Richard, that implies a detour from
building to actually learning to use that high-dollar TIG machine
that's hiding under a tarp in the hangar....
On 10/21/2014 1:23 PM, Richard Sohn wrote:
I did all my odd-angle bends with cut and weld using
mandrel bent 90 and 180 degrees.
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2014 10:12 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Getting There, New
Exhaust and Radiator Setup
This one shows the rad
returning to the engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone
transition on the block (same as output on top), a 180
degree mandrel bend (that I stretched out to ~135
degrees), and that connects to the hose coming from the
rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happy with the
stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it.
Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends
in 1" diameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but
they're in the UK & no longer ship to the USA (I guess
we are the new 3rd world).
On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting
to be hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.
On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in
previous pic, the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is
~1" OD. The silicone coupler is just a piece of 1"
silicone hose. It will stretch quite a bit.
This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1
1/4" to 1".
On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in
multiple emails, due to list size limits.
I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone
bends. There are several sites with pretty good
prices.
Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper
than their silicone bends. For same-size couplers,
you can just buy a length of hose & cut it into
couplers (see radiator input pic).
I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself,
even if I packed the tubing with sand prior to
bending & used a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe
bender. However, if you can stand the loss of flow
area, AL electrical conduit is relatively easy to
bend without collapsing it (thicker walls).
Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to
$20 per foot. Tubing looks prettier, but a
continuous run of silicone hose isn't that much more
expensive and it can get done in minutes instead of
weeks. Ask me how I know....
Charlie
On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:
Hello Doug:
The radiator is 100% stock; I
did not weld any fittings onto it. My method
may not save you any money though, as I bought
expensive $30 blue silicone hose (HPS) couplers
to mate with the stock 1.5 inch water pump
inlet/outlet connectors on my engine. One elbow
is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is
1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator.
In between is 1.5” aluminum straight or elbow
tubing. Jeff
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Jeff:
Do you have any shots of the fittings
you had welded onto your Griffin
radiator, etc. I am thinking of doing
something similar for my 9A w/13B
since I really don't want to spend $1K
on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN
fittings, hose, etc.
Thanks.
Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF
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