|
This one shows the rad returning to the
engine. There's a 1 1/4" to 1" silicone transition on the block
(same as output on top), a 180 degree mandrel bend (that I
stretched out to ~135 degrees), and that connects to the hose
coming from the rad bottom fitting (previous pic). I'm not happy
with the stretched 180; it didn't stay round when I stretched it.
Unfortunately, it's hard to find 135 degree mandrel bends in 1"
diameter. There are a couple of ebay vendors, but they're in the
UK & no longer ship to the USA (I guess we are the new 3rd
world).
On 10/21/2014 10:05 AM, Charlie England wrote:
This shows 1" ID hose waiting to be
hooked up to the 1 1/8" rad bottom fitting.
On 10/21/2014 10:03 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Forgot to mention: in previous pic,
the rad top fitting is 1 1/8"; tube is ~1" OD. The silicone
coupler is just a piece of 1" silicone hose. It will stretch
quite a bit.
This shows a transition fitting from the pump outlet 1 1/4" to
1".
On 10/21/2014 9:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
Pics to follow in multiple
emails, due to list size limits.
I bought most of my stuff from
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/
and
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/
Also, check ebay for both mandrel bends and silicone bends.
There are several sites with pretty good prices.
Silicone Intakes' mandrel bends are much cheaper than their
silicone bends. For same-size couplers, you can just buy a
length of hose & cut it into couplers (see radiator
input pic).
I had no luck bending thinwall AL tubing myself, even if I
packed the tubing with sand prior to bending & used a
Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender. However, if you can
stand the loss of flow area, AL electrical conduit is
relatively easy to bend without collapsing it (thicker
walls).
Silicone hose seems to cost anywhere from $5 (1") to $20 per
foot. Tubing looks prettier, but a continuous run of
silicone hose isn't that much more expensive and it can get
done in minutes instead of weeks. Ask me how I know....
Charlie
On 10/21/2014 7:28 AM, Jeff Whaley wrote:
Hello Doug:
The radiator is 100% stock; I did not
weld any fittings onto it. My method may not save you
any money though, as I bought expensive $30 blue
silicone hose (HPS) couplers to mate with the stock 1.5
inch water pump inlet/outlet connectors on my engine.
One elbow is 1.5” to 1.5”, 90 degree and the other is
1.75” to 1.5”, 45 degree to match the radiator. In
between is 1.5” aluminum straight or elbow tubing.
Jeff
|
|
|
Jeff:
Do you have any shots of the fittings you had
welded onto your Griffin radiator, etc. I am
thinking of doing something similar for my 9A
w/13B since I really don't want to spend $1K
on a bunch of $35-40 a piece AN fittings,
hose, etc.
Thanks.
Doug Lomheim
RV-9A 13B FWF
|
This message, and the documents attached hereto, is intended
only for the addressee and may contain privileged or
confidential information. Any unauthorized disclosure is
strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in
error, please notify us immediately so that we may correct
our internal records. Please then delete the original
message. Thank you.
|