From: "Ed Anderson" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] controller, sensor, wiring questions
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 07:10:46 -0400
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Charlie, I'm a bit behind the times on Tracy's EC2 - but, last I knew it did 
not have an auto tune feature (my info could easily be out of date), plus it 
was my understanding that the auto tune feature required the EM2/3 as well 
as the EC.

For best results the EFISM should be grounded to the aircraft electrical 
ground rather than to a ground pin on some other accessory.  It should not 
really make a difference, but closer to the battery negative lead the better 
in my opinion.  Current thought seems to be not to use aircraft chassis as a 
primary electrical ground.

PS Don't' forget to bring the EFISM with you.

Ed

-----Original Message----- 
From: Charlie England
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2014 9:11 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] controller, sensor, wiring questions

Currently building the wiring harness for the engine/controller, & have
a few questions.

1st, is anyone running multiple devices that need to see the 1-wire O-2
sensor? I need to feed both the EC2 (for auto-tune) and Ed A's monitor.
Will there be a conflict if both are connected to the sensor at the same
time?

1a (for Ed A), does your monitor care where it's grounded, for
stable/accurate measurement? Both pin pairs 19/37 and pins 1/16 go to
chassis ground, but the pairs are not common to each other in the EC2.
Should it go direct to chassis, or to one or the other of the ground pairs?

2nd, I'd like to include Steve Boese's Rotary Copilot running on an
iPaq, for data logging. I'm fairly confident that I'll need to switch
pin 27 ( EC2 serial data in) between the two devices. Can pin 7 (EC2
serial data out) feed both devices at once, or should it be switched, as
well?

3rd, the high impedance injectors seem to draw less than 1 A each, when
on. Are true 10A DC rated switches needed for injector disable, or would
lower current, AC rated switches do? A true 10 A DC rated switch is not
that easy  to find (or afford...), and with the draw being effectively
AC (high speed switching) and <2 A for primary pair and secondary pair,
it would seem that a 5A DC rated switch should get the job done safely.

4th, anyone have a source for the RX-8 crank angle sensor connector? I
can solder directly to the sensor, but I'd rather use proper connectors,
if possible.

Thanks,

Charlie

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