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Thomas,
That is actually reasonably cheap for as I said Motech is the world
leader. I went to a bloke that fits Motech to some spitfire clones and has
all sorts of redundancies in the system, and did not take long to get to well
over $10,000 and he was still going up with price and add ons. Again
Motech is the best choice and you will not regret your decision. Most race
cars run with motech. Neil.
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 8:33 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Switcheroo from turbo to
not
M84
1865.00 AU....I was going to go with Tracy's Equipment and I am sure it would
have worked fine,but the engine builder has had a lot of experience with Motec
and Tuning ect. I yielded to there wisdom.
KIND REGARDS
Thomas Giddings
727 858 1772
On Apr 11, 2014, at 10:42 PM, Neil Unger wrote:
You have taken the top line ECU, but very expensive.
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 12:36 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Switcheroo from turbo to
not
My
engine will be run by a Motec. It is australian as well..
KIND REGARDS
Thomas Giddings
727 858 1772
On Apr 11, 2014, at 10:06 PM, Neil Unger wrote:
No secret really, just a microtech ECU which is Australian! (Had
to get that one in!) I can only go by the A/F ration as per fuel
burn. With tracy’s I kept it at around 12.5 as the engine seemed
happier there, while the microtech is running great at 13.5 to 14.
However I must add there that I have now been advised to richen that to a
max of 13.5, so have to make a few further adjustments there.
Knowing fuel burn other than that is impossible as Tracy’s engine
monitor does not recognise the pulse from the injectors, or I have probably
stuffed up the wiring somewhere. I also had to put a thermostat back
in the line as the ECU works from water temp, MAP, a fuel map and a
TPS. You have to set an idle map, a load map, then a WOT map.
Tracy’s is easier to map, but needs the knob to continually fine tune the
mix which was very useful. Having finally got the ECU map right in the
new ECU (I hope) it is simply just a transfer of the numbers to any other
similar engine. The final setting I have to set is the automatic lean
out in cruise. Once you no longer fiddle with the throttle for a few
minutes the ECU says, I can lean this out for cruise, so does so to what you
have set (adjustable). It automatically richens for start and
progressively leans as the engine warms up. Once you hit the magic 85
degrees then the fuel map is as programmed. I have had grief with
blowing the main fuse to the ECU by turning off at the master switch.
Simple cure is to now kill the engine with the coil isolation switchs.
My new EGT of 1725 is at an A/F ratio of almost 14, so can be lowered
further by more fuel and possibly advancing ignition by a degree or
two. A local rotary racing bloke tells me that he gets up to 45
degrees BTDC. AS usual, so much to learn. Neil.
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 8:56 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Switcheroo from turbo to
not
Ok...We
all gotta know..which ECU and did your fuel burn increase>:)
KIND REGARDS
Thomas Giddings
727 858 1772
On Apr 11, 2014, at 6:28 PM, Neil Unger wrote:
Your EGT is interesting. I could easily get up to 1850 degrees
at WOT. over about 5 hours I managed to burn out 2 sets of EGT
probes due to heat. Then I managed to stuff up Tracy;s ECU which
mandated a return for repair. While waiting for it’s return I had
the offer of a different ECU. Once wired in and set I found that the
max EGT that I now get is 1725 degrees. Nothing else has been
changed. The only difference between this unit and Tracy’s is that
this has a trigger box which I suspect gets the spark away just that
fraction quicker and may in fact make the spark advanced over
Tracy’s. The new unit sits at 27 degrees BTDC at WOT.
Would like Tracy to chime in on this one as my expertise is mechanical,
certainly not electrical. It may also be imagination,
but the exhaust seems quieter. Neil.
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 8:14 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Switcheroo from turbo to
not
Sounds like a prudent plan to me.
Sent from my iPad
I went out to the
Hangar last Tuesday to start installing the intercooler. Well, at least
to fit a few tubes and hoses, then hold up some parts and make
plans.
As I took the air discharge tube off the compressor, I noticed the
whole turbo compressor & bearing assembly wiggling around on the
turbine housing!
I checked all the mounting bolts and clips, everything was tight.
So I took the turbo off the engine, and realized that I probably
cooked the turbine housing. I did see EGT excursions to 1800F. What's
worse, I had a new turbo blanket. I think a heat shield would have been
better, so some cooling air could pass over the housing, but still block
radiant heat.
Bummer.
So I decided to go with Plan B: I ordered the bits and tube bends
to switch to naturally aspirated operation. I'm keeping the exhaust
header that the turbo sat upon, and replacing everything else past the
bottom of the firewall, to the new pipe & muffler I recently
added.
I'm retaining the ability to 'Go Turbo' later, but I've become
curious about what the turbo must boost to equal full throttle of
'Naturally Aspirated'.
I did build and have been running a tuned intake manifold. The
exhaust won't be a tuned header, but it is pretty good, possibly better
than the stock exhaust reactor and a whole lot lighter. It has port
discharge nozzles (reversion cones) EGT probes and a gentle sweeping
shape. Plus it's proven strong while carrying the weight of the turbo
beyond 1800F, and it passed inspection. I trust it.
So I hope to run it, find the performance satisfactory, the fuel
consumption significantly reduced, and use 87 octane ethanol free mogas
instead of 92. (low compression rotors)
Also, I can advance the timing to the NA spec.
Anyone see a problem or have
advise?
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