X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-da06.mx.aol.com ([205.188.169.203] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.1) with ESMTP id 5998316 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 06 Jan 2013 23:34:33 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.169.203; envelope-from=shipchief@aol.com Received: from mtaout-db04.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaout-db04.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.51.196]) by imr-da06.mx.aol.com (Outbound Mail Relay) with ESMTP id 8126C1C000085 for ; Sun, 6 Jan 2013 23:33:59 -0500 (EST) Received: from [10.248.62.97] (20.sub-174-255-162.myvzw.com [174.255.162.20]) (using TLSv1 with cipher AES128-SHA (128/128 bits)) (No client certificate requested) by mtaout-db04.r1000.mx.aol.com (MUA/Third Party Client Interface) with ESMTPSA id 95A8CE0000E2 for ; Sun, 6 Jan 2013 23:33:58 -0500 (EST) References: In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 (iPhone Mail 8E600) Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=Apple-Mail-2--878568037 Message-Id: Cc: Rotary motors in aircraft X-Mailer: iPhone Mail (8E600) From: Scott Emery Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Penetrating Oil-equivalency, vs home made Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 20:33:52 -0800 To: Rotary motors in aircraft x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20121107; t=1357533239; bh=YKxrnan459/d+snwix0iebLi/aR0EuRWgSPvZB6m2ys=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-Id:Date:Mime-Version:Content-Type; b=Wp+jIYmzbAJxpTcEBwH8QFq1y8hhkENGSxC5Uf3VKClsumyre7Mb0iKa7UY7zAy0V 5wSjFoYAwXsf7rEg2clMdGwPoe5x1uHhCZxHOYeP+A64vjVT5Z5OpCkCSDGILwpN8Q LLoYzz9LbAf1kHjwypeWKIHLXQOXaVNivF3wl2F4= X-AOL-SCOLL-SCORE: 0:2:438188928:93952408 X-AOL-SCOLL-URL_COUNT: 0 x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d33c450ea50363ea1 X-AOL-IP: 174.255.162.20 --Apple-Mail-2--878568037 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I just thought about it when rebuilding the rear brakes on my sons truck. I h= ad a partial full quart bottle of ATF, so I dumped in an equal amount of ace= tone and gave it a shake. I just dribbled it on the castanets I needed to remove and it seemed to do t= he trick. What could be easier or cheaper? Sent from my iPhone On Jan 6, 2013, at 7:26 PM, Charlie England wrote: > I had such good luck I keep it in a pump oil can all the time, & add a lit= tle acetone if it's been sitting a long time between uses.=20 >=20 > Did you use the old petro based ATF? That's what I used. I never saw anyth= ing about which blend to use, so I used what I had on hand. I save the synth= etic ATF for my RV-4 brake lines. :-) >=20 > Charlie >=20 > On 01/06/2013 09:05 PM, Bob Darrah wrote: >> Your results may vary, I did not have that good of luck. My MFer was a f= ew years older. Charlie, if you say it works, I=E2=80=99ll try again. >> =20 >> Bob >> =20 >> From: Charlie England >> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 7:00 PM >> To: Rotary motors in aircraft >> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Penetrating Oil-equivalency, vs home made >> =20 >> =46rom a Southerner: Awww, Kontrair! >>=20 >> Actually, I can't speak to the chemistry of mixing the two, but if you pu= t an equal quantity of each in a pumper oil can, shake it up, and squirt it o= n solidly rusted bolts/nuts & let it sit for a while, they *wi= ll* magically loosen with much less force than you would expec= t. >>=20 >> I used the technique on a Massey Ferguson tractor that hadn't been apart s= ince the early '60s, & was amazed at how well it worked. >>=20 >> But no reason to take my word for it; for less than $10 (or maybe nothing= , depending on how well your shop is equipped), you can check the 'science' f= or yourself. :-) >>=20 >> Charlie >>=20 >=20 --Apple-Mail-2--878568037 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Type: text/html; charset=utf-8
I just thought about it when rebuilding= the rear brakes on my sons truck. I had a partial full quart bottle of ATF,= so I dumped in an equal amount of acetone and gave it a shake.
I j= ust dribbled it on the castanets I needed to remove and it seemed to do the t= rick. What could be easier or cheaper?

Sent from my iPhone
=
On Jan 6, 2013, at 7:26 PM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote:

=
I had such good luck I keep it in a pump oil can all the time, & add a little acetone if it's been sitting a long time between uses.

Did you use the old petro based ATF? That's what I used. I never saw anything about which blend to use, so I used what I had on hand. I save the synthetic ATF for my RV-4 brake lines. :-)

Charlie

On 01/06/2013 09:05 PM, Bob Darrah wrote:
=20
Your results may vary,  I did not have that good of luck.  My MFer was a few years older.  Charlie, if you= say it works, I=E2=80=99ll try again.
 
Bob
 
Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 7:00 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Penetrating Oil-equivalency, vs home made
 
=46rom a Southerner: Awww, Kontrair!

Actually, I can't speak to the chemistry of mixing the two, but if you put an equal quantity of each in a pumper oil can, shake it up, and squirt it on solidly rusted bolts/nuts & let it sit for a while, they *will* magically loosen with much less force than you would expect.

I used the technique on a Massey Ferguson tractor that hadn't been apart since the early '60s, & was amazed at how well it worked.

But no reason to take my word for it; for less than $10 (or maybe nothing, depending on how well your shop is equipped), you can check the 'science' for yourself. :-)

Charlie


=20
= --Apple-Mail-2--878568037--