That remember this or remember that from a build even a few days old will just drive you mad. The good news is that a missing "O" ring from the dowel gallery will cause a running oil leak from the housing involved as soon as oil temperature comes up the first time. So that is not the problem. A seep from the legs, or area of the housing below the water "O" ring down to the pan rail is usually the location that is suspect.

 

The factory goops up the aluminum in that area and hopes for the best outcome. The goop is very similar to silicone. I use 100% GE tub and tile caulk. 99.9% of that is squeezed out when you torque up the stack.

 

There are other products that may or do, work as well, if you don't like silicone. Permatex non hardening is one. The expensive blue stuff from England also works. Used to seal Hewland gear sets together after each gear change.  The spray on gold gasket maker works fine but is messy.  

 

Do not use solvents to clean the engine after assembly. It can remove some of the silicone. Just soap and water.

 

When you assemble engines, wipe on a line of sealant from the pan rail to the water "O" ring groove, and into the groove a bit. Won't hurt a thing and will never leak.

 

When you finish torqueing up the stack, check to make sure sealant squeezed out of both sides of each leg, and the pan rail. Scrape it off with a yummy stick. Craft department at Walmart.

There you go. No more leaks.

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

Well, I'm with you - do the retorque first, that may fix the seep.  IF not
then I guess other alternatives will have to be take, Chris {:>)

Ed

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ernest Christley" <echristley@att.net>
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 11:12 AM
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: "O" rings??  was: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil leaking from
between plates

> Ed Anderson wrote:
>> Sounds like progress, Ernest.
>>
>> However, I'm not certain the equation of oil spitting to power.  The oil
>> pressure should remain fairly constant from 2000- above rpm.  Unless you
>> are referring to perhaps the plates flexing more due to the increased
>> power?
>>
>> I think re-torquing the bolts would be the first step - who knows that
>> might fix the problem.
>>
>> I presume you did place the "O" rings over the alignment  "tubes"
>> between the plates that carry the oil when you assembled the engine?
>>
>
> Hmmm.....?
> Certainly, I would have.
> I seem to remember doing that.
> But.  Did I?
>
> Crap.
>
> OK.  Let's think this out.
> I THINK that I used all the parts when putting the engine together.
> I KNOW that I did NOT perform the extensive re-torquing that Lynn
> recommends from his experience with loose engines when
> it isn't done.
>
> So, my course of action will be to do a tear down to reach the case bolts,
> and measure how much they move with a
> re-torque.  Given the leak is more of just a seep on the left side, even a
> 1/4 turn on a bolt would probably be enough
> to seal it up.  If I get an additional 1/4 turn on any left side bolt,
> wash the engine down, bolt it back together, and
> call it fixed until I see any additional seeping to prove otherwise.  If I
> do see any more seeping, I'll pretend my name
> is Chris and tear the whole engine down.  8*)
>
>
>
>
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