Ernest,

Did you do the rebuild?  If so, did you apply RTV on the lower portion
of the housings per the assy. manual?  I'm talking about the section
of rotor/side housing that is common to the oil pan.  If you don't put
RTV in this area, no amount of re-torquing will get it to stop
leaking.

Mark


On 8/20/12, Ernest Christley <echristley@att.net> wrote:
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>> Sounds like progress, Ernest.
>>
>> However, I'm not certain the equation of oil spitting to power.  The oil
>> pressure should remain fairly constant from 2000- above rpm.  Unless you
>> are referring to perhaps the plates flexing more due to the increased
>> power?
>>
>> I think re-torquing the bolts would be the first step - who knows that
>> might fix the problem.
>>
>> I presume you did place the "O" rings over the alignment  "tubes"
>> between the plates that carry the oil when you assembled the engine?
>>
>
> Hmmm.....?
> Certainly, I would have.
> I seem to remember doing that.
> But.  Did I?
>
> Crap.
>
> OK.  Let's think this out.
> I THINK that I used all the parts when putting the engine together.
> I KNOW that I did NOT perform the extensive re-torquing that Lynn recommends
> from his experience with loose engines when
>  it isn't done.
>
> So, my course of action will be to do a tear down to reach the case bolts,
> and measure how much they move with a
> re-torque.  Given the leak is more of just a seep on the left side, even a
> 1/4 turn on a bolt would probably be enough
> to seal it up.  If I get an additional 1/4 turn on any left side bolt, wash
> the engine down, bolt it back together, and
> call it fixed until I see any additional seeping to prove otherwise.  If I
> do see any more seeping, I'll pretend my name
> is Chris and tear the whole engine down.  8*)
>
>
>
>
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