X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mx2.netapp.com ([216.240.18.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0c1) with ESMTPS id 5719809 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 20 Aug 2012 11:13:36 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=216.240.18.37; envelope-from=echristley@att.net X-IronPort-AV: E=Sophos;i="4.77,797,1336374000"; d="scan'208";a="678534987" Received: from smtp2.corp.netapp.com ([10.57.159.114]) by mx2-out.netapp.com with ESMTP; 20 Aug 2012 08:12:59 -0700 Received: from [10.62.19.17] (ernestc-laptop.hq.netapp.com [10.62.19.17]) by smtp2.corp.netapp.com (8.13.1/8.13.1/NTAP-1.6) with ESMTP id q7KFCwmT010678 for ; Mon, 20 Aug 2012 08:12:59 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <503253FA.4040602@att.net> Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 11:12:58 -0400 From: Ernest Christley Reply-To: echristley@att.net User-Agent: Thunderbird 2.0.0.24 (X11/20100623) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] "O" rings?? was: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil leaking from between plates References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ed Anderson wrote: > Sounds like progress, Ernest. > > However, I'm not certain the equation of oil spitting to power. The oil > pressure should remain fairly constant from 2000- above rpm. Unless you > are referring to perhaps the plates flexing more due to the increased > power? > > I think re-torquing the bolts would be the first step - who knows that > might fix the problem. > > I presume you did place the "O" rings over the alignment "tubes" > between the plates that carry the oil when you assembled the engine? > Hmmm.....? Certainly, I would have. I seem to remember doing that. But. Did I? Crap. OK. Let's think this out. I THINK that I used all the parts when putting the engine together. I KNOW that I did NOT perform the extensive re-torquing that Lynn recommends from his experience with loose engines when it isn't done. So, my course of action will be to do a tear down to reach the case bolts, and measure how much they move with a re-torque. Given the leak is more of just a seep on the left side, even a 1/4 turn on a bolt would probably be enough to seal it up. If I get an additional 1/4 turn on any left side bolt, wash the engine down, bolt it back together, and call it fixed until I see any additional seeping to prove otherwise. If I do see any more seeping, I'll pretend my name is Chris and tear the whole engine down. 8*)