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I think there's a miscommunication about how this device works. It's
quite simple: two commutator brushes on a fixed arm transfer current
into the prop hub to engage the motor and twist the prop blades.
Like most motors/actuators, you wire it such that positive voltage
is applied to turn it one way, negative turns it the other, and
while not moving there is no voltage applied. A simple (ON)-OFF-(ON)
switch drives this.
There are only two brushes so there's no way to transfer an at-limit
signal, and although I'm just guessing here, a reliable pair of
limit switches that can operate properly inside the prop at full RPM
would have been complicated/maybe unreliable? They'd also be a pain
to adjust.
Anyway, the motor draws only a moderate amount of current in the
middle of its travel, and this increases as you approach the limits.
Standard practice is to install a meter to indicate this draw and it
tells you when you're near the limit.
You could install a PTC instead of a breaker, but it's hardly an
emergency. It's not actually SOP to run it that far - in the times
I've flown with John I don't recall him ever doing it except perhaps
once to show me what happens. You don't "run it until it pops." You
"run it until it's where you want it to be." So PTC or breaker, it
doesn't really make that much of a difference. Choose the safety
device you prefer.
I don't understand the bit about the shorted switch. That's pretty
rare, and the breaker would deal with it just fine. And I can't
speak for anybody else, but every car I've ever owned doesn't use a
PTC to set the travel limit on the window, it uses a limit switch on
the actuator. I recall having to adjust mine one time in a Subaru,
just like the nose gear travel switches in a Cozy.
Besides, what's the down side here? You short your switch and the
breaker will deal with it, and the prop will stop twisting. No
matter WHICH device you use, in this case you now have no way to
move the prop because a short would hold a PTC open and also keep
tripping a breaker when you manually reset that. Both devices have
the same failure mode if it's the switch that's the problem. But you
still have a working prop even if it's not at the optimal pitch. See
if you can jiggle the switch to clear the short...
To each his own.
Regards,
Chad
On 6/13/12 5:15 PM, Lehanover@aol.com wrote:
Why in the world would IVO use a device that
is designed to fail critical flight gear in the case of
improper control
manipulation when they don't have to? Isn't this the
classical and proper application for a polyfuse? Polyfuses
are
used in power windows for this exact reason. You're kids can
pull on that switch all day without damaging the window
motor. I'm thinking of the case where a switch gets shorted
(like my belt sander's switch is right now...the power cord
is serving as a temp fix until I get time), or someone
accidentally leans something against the switch.
Why does the motor draw current after the pitch has been
changed?
Lynn E. Hanover
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