Small balls of yellowish water stuck on the dip stick is normal after short runs. An hour at operating temperature will flash off all of the water in the oil and put some condensate in the recovery can.

 

Dump in a bottle of BarsLeak (looks like Rabbit turds in water) into the radiator, seal up the cap and run it to temperature. Typical in racing where most sessions are less than 20 minutes. The engine cooling off draws in ambient air with humidity in it and at night it condenses out as water sitting on top of the sump oil. More short sessions just adds more water. On a nice dry day run it to temperature and dump the oil.

Refill right away with fresh oil. If you are using the OMP then use a straight weight dino oil like a 40 weight racing oil. If you have a remote bottle feeding the OMP then use a racing synthetic like a 40 weight RedLine or similar. Any time you have it shut down plug the intake and exhaust pipes so air cannot be exchanged as it cools.

 

Or, if you are getting yellow stringy foam in great gobs on the stick.

It it time to take it down and install new Stock OEM seals. Some times retorqueing the case bolts will cure a little leak. I would go there first.

 

If you didn't do the bolt pattern 7 times, you didn't torque it the first time. Then leave it sit at least over night and do it one more time.

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

AcroSport biplane 13B using EC3., EM3,  dash C psru, 74X64 Sterba prop.  Hobbs shows 5 hours of ground running...WOT static shows 6500RPM 170 HP, 17 GPM.  Well dream on concerning that number.  After about ten minutes of variable throttle settings we read water and oil at 158 degrees, day was cool for Houston, 70 degrees.  To approximate take off power, and time,  ran 6000RPM for four minutes and observe water at 208 F oil about the same, and climbing slowly.  Hope she cools better in flight. At my  next trip to the hangar I pulled the dip stick and found traces of condensed oil/water slime on the rod.  The crank case oil was at the proper level and was clear and appeared normal.  Back in December 2007 when I assembled this 13B I had a lot of problems because the oil  and water seals would not stay in their grooves...appeared to be too small, had to slide the housings around to get closure and allow the assembly bolts to pass through.  So who knows what twisted condition they may now lay in.  Losing a little water this way is like begin a little pregnant, isn't it?  I checked the oil/vapor separator and it shows nothing from the engine after these 5 hours of run time.  At 72 years of age, I really want to install the wings and fly this 15 year project for some gratification before the delay of a complete engine re-do.   What do you think? 

Randy