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Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 23:35:18 -0700
Message-ID: <CAN=mtacc49E3EsQ+zbSqmkqXKSBOSi1KO3C7sxhA1cvR1LvMOg@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Exhaust Bolts Question
From: William Jepson <wrjjrs@gmail.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=20cf300fb0c7ca89be04c19fbc26

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Doug,
Studs and nuts are fine. Forget the Locktite products. I love Locktite but
they are only good to 300 degrees F. If you read the literature that comes
with Locktite the way to get the red stud and bearing mount to release is
to heat it to 350 for a minute. If you don't want exhaust nuts to come off
either safety wire them, or get some of the "jet" or "K" nuts.  The nuts
are very expensive so I have always used .032" safety wire.
Bill Jepson
On Jun 3, 2012 8:56 PM, <DLOMHEIM@aol.com> wrote:

> **
> As you all can see in my previous exhaust picture, my 13B has bolts to
> hold the exhaust manifold on (which is the way that Tommy James flew it in
> his Glastar for 50 hrs. or so) before I bought it.  I am thinking that I
> should probably swap out these bolts for studs and nuts, since I don't ever
> want have to worry about bottoming the bolt out and then stripping out the
> treads when torqueing them per spec., etc.
>
> So my question is what are most of you all flying with...studs or bolts?
>
> Also, if I add studs, is there a product anyone can recommend (such as a
> loc tite type product) that will help keep the stud from backing out but
> also survive in the high temp environment by the exhaust manifold?  Is the
> RED Loctite made for this type of duty factor?
>
> Thanks for any information.
>
> Doug
>

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<p>Doug,<br>
Studs and nuts are fine. Forget the Locktite products. I love Locktite but =
they are only good to 300 degrees F. If you read the literature that comes =
with Locktite the way to get the red stud and bearing mount to release is t=
o heat it to 350 for a minute. If you don&#39;t want exhaust nuts to come o=
ff either safety wire them, or get some of the &quot;jet&quot; or &quot;K&q=
uot; nuts.=A0 The nuts are very expensive so I have always used .032&quot; =
safety wire. <br>

Bill Jepson </p>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Jun 3, 2012 8:56 PM,  &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:D=
LOMHEIM@aol.com">DLOMHEIM@aol.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px =
#ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<u></u>



<div style=3D"font-size:10pt;font-family:Arial"><font color=3D"#000000" fac=
e=3D"Arial">
<div>As you all can see in my previous exhaust picture, my 13B has bolts to=
 hold=20
the exhaust manifold on (which is the way that Tommy James flew it in his=
=20
Glastar for 50 hrs. or so) before I bought it.=A0 I am thinking that I shou=
ld=20
probably=A0swap out these=A0bolts for studs and nuts, since I=A0don&#39;t=
=20
ever want have to worry about=A0bottoming the bolt out and then stripping o=
ut=20
the treads when torqueing them per spec., etc.=A0=A0=A0 </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>So my question is what are most of you all flying with...studs or=20
bolts?</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Also, if I add studs, is there a product anyone can recommend (such as=
 a=20
loc tite type product) that will help keep the stud from backing out but al=
so=20
survive in the high temp environment by the exhaust manifold?=A0 Is the RED=
=20
Loctite made for this type of duty factor?</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Thanks for any information.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Doug</div></font></div></blockquote></div>

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