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On 05/29/2012 01:12 PM, Ernest Christley wrote:
Lehanover@aol.com wrote:
I was hoping you wouldn't see this, but now that the cat is out of the
bag............
You can see the need for some shielding between the headers and any
items that you don't want at the same temperature. Radiant energy is
line of sight. If the header can see it, up goes the temperature.
Pieces of .015" stainless stood off the header about 1/2" to 3/4" breaks
the line of sight. Building such on the header reduces the amount of
material involved. It is easier to not heat things up than it is to cool
it after you have. Use 1/4" hose clamps to hold onto the shielding.
A small blast tube to keep things moving past the headers is helpful.
I can make a picture if you like. Helps keep heat out of the intake
system and thus more power. Very easy. Amazing results.
Lynn E. Hanover
My exhaust is encased in a .015 stainless box down to the end of the collector. The down pipe and muffler are exposed,
and I see where it is blistering the belly paint already. I'll be wrapping more of the exhaust in the thin stainless.
I will also open the stainless box up to allow some blast air through. First I have to change that down pipe from 1.5"
dia to 3". I can't seem to get above 5100RPM, and I think exhaust backpressure is my issue.
As someone else pointed out, it would pay to look at the prop first. What's the prop rpm? If it's anything close to typical a/c engine static rpm (2000-2300, depending on pitch), then you might be able to borrow a regular wood prop from someone to use as a benchmark. Knowing the design HP & static for a specific prop, & checking your performance against it, will give you a much better handle on how much power you're actually making.
Charlie
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