| Sounds like a good idea. I have the same regulator, but opted to put in a piped bypass. Don't know if it works yet, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't. I press fit a rivet into an AN fitting and drilled a .020" hole through the rivet, and piped it past the regulator.
Yours sounds like a much simpler and definitely lighter solution. Good thinking!
Ben --- On Mon, 8/15/11, Ernest Christley <echristley@att.net> wrote:
From: Ernest Christley <echristley@att.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Dennis Haverlah Fuel System...or any others, for that matter.
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Date: Monday, August 15, 2011, 12:37 AM
On 08/15/2011 01:27 AM, Ernest Christley wrote:
I removed the 4 screws, wrapped up the base in some shop rags,
leaving just the top of the post exposed, then used a cut-off
wheel in my Dremel to make a deep scratch in the steel ball's seat
on the top of the post.
I put it all back together, tested that the pumps made 60psi,
regulated it back down to 50, then watched the pressure bleed off
in about 5 seconds after I switched the pumps off. Then I went in
the house to recover from the gas fumes.
This method doesn't add any weight, connections or extra hose, but
is 100% effective at relieving the fuel line pressure on shutdown.
BTW, what made me decide to do this was some reading I was doing on
the forums. The chamber in the base that holds the pressurized fuel
also has an 1/8"NPT outlet meant for a fuel pressure gauge. I was
considering using this for the pressure bleed connection. Some of
the hot-rodders were complaining about how the Aeromotive regulators
weren't holding pressure after the fuel pumps were shut down. They
traced their woes to poor machining of the steel ball's seat on the
base's post.
Their spending time and energy to clean up the machining to make a
perfect seal, so I went out and destroyed some beautiful machine
work to make a terrible seal. Go figure.
|