The stock early relief valves were all set at 71.9 pounds. Those can be disassembled and a few washers installed under the spring to bring top pressure up to whatever you want.
Racers like 75 to 100 pounds, the stock twin turbo FD is set at 115 pounds.
The .Weber jet mods to the oil spray nozzles in the crank are there to preclude a piece of broken spring from finding its way into the oil pump. Also to control how much oil gets sprayed into the rotors for cooling. Racing Beat says a 200 main jet is about right. I use a 180 air corrector because I had a lot of them and it fits better. I also use 100 Pounds from a dry sump pump and do not want too much oil going into the rotors to limit foaming. If you do this mod to a street engine, the idiot light will blink all of the time at idle. Too big a leak in the oiling system. Once you have a few revs on hand the pressure comes up a bit and the light goes out. The rotors foam the oil badly and that reduces oil pressure and heat transfer (from air in the oil) . So if you have this mod your idle pressure will be below normal, and you peak pressure will be a few pounds light from oil temps and (bigger holes).
Once at top RPM, the only limit on pressure should be the relief valve cracking pressure. You can check that with shop air pressure before assembly. You can mod the early valves to get more pressure. You can use a heavier weight oil. Racing oils have more anti scuff compounds and more anti foaming additives. You can limit oil temps. You can buy an 85 or 110 pound valve from Racing Beat, or make one yourself. Reinstall the valve with the drain horizontal to help reduce foaming. That 68 pounds at full throttle and full temps is plenty, bearing wise, just not as reassuring as 85 pounds. Be sure that there is a restrictor in the pressure line to the turbo. The next time the pan is off, just mod the valve up to 80 PSI and settle for 75 pounds at cruise. It won't make any difference, but You will feel better, and we will feel better.
Lynn E. Hanover
PS. There is a 3 rotor in a second gen body in my shop.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 7, 2011 6:52 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: My latest full power run
I thought you were running a Renisis.
Sent from my iPhone 4
I have the mods too and I get 90 psi at that rpm.
Rino
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 10:21 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: My latest full power run
Keep in mind he has the thermal pellet mod AND the carb jets mod done to the e-shaft.. That could be a factor in oil pressure, especially when warm.
I like the other numbers though..
Dave
On 6/6/2011 7:48 PM, Kelly Troyer wrote:
Chris,
Curious if your oil pressure has been calibrated..............I personally would like to see
slightly more pressure at 6000+ rpm............Lynn jump in here and tell me if I am off base
about this...............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Mon, June 6, 2011 7:34:15 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] My latest full power run
See attached photo. I actually slid just over 32 map at bit over 6200 rpm for a few seconds too with my IVO at the flattest pitch on this ground static run. Just FYI.
Chris