In a message dated 2/15/2011 11:58:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cbarber@texasattorney.net writes:
Heck,
tearing down my engine seems to be a routine event as of late
<sigh>
That was my understanding too....about being nicer to the
housings.
I was just wondering about what I don't know or what could be
expanded on.
Like Dave said, minding parameters is the proper course
but I would like to have as clear an understanding as possible for my own
edification.
Ceramics have now come of age in many areas. Any machine shop has tooling
in the form of ceramic triangles that clamp into tool holders. It maters not if
the work piece is heat treated, or harder than Chinese arithmetic, the ceramic
bits go through it like it was butter. The bits are cheap, and discarded if
fouled or dulled.
Ceramic apex seals are the gold standard of apex seals. No detectible wear
on the seals or the housing chrome. In our case for two seasons of racing.
Stronger than steel. Oblivious to high temperatures.
And for racing, track the housing shape at any RPM, using doubled springs,
and even with twice the spring pressure, have less than half the drag of a
carbon seal, and far less than stock steel seals. An automatic 5 HP over steel
seals. Ceramics are so light that you cannot help but grin when you pick one up.
Ceramics do survive detonation events that would put all steel seals in the
muffler. But not for long.
I have read that RA seals also hold up well. Ceramics are used in nearly
all pro racing applications.
I sold a used set to another racer for $500.00. They were identical to
new seals after two years of service.
The down side is cost. And for one piece seals, typical of racing
applications, you must be sure you have the minimum end clearance, about
.0015".
There have been efforts to develop a two piece seal that is less sensitive
to length variations, as they run at zero end clearance for much better cold
starting.
Mazda competition sells racing ceramics, probably Linetties. There are
other manufacturers.
Here is one.
Lynn E. Hanover