Ah. 

Will so. Unless new plugs solve the problem. 

Do you sell individual seals?  Since I have no indication of problems in number 1 I would prefer to not wake a sleeping dog. I know you have heard it before but money is tight. 

Thanks. 

Sent from my iPhone 4

On Feb 14, 2011, at 11:12 AM, "Tracy" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com> wrote:

Hi Chris,
   It never occurred to me that you might replace only the Apex seal springs and not the seals themselves.  If you fried the springs you undoubtedly fried the seals too.   The failure mode (if they are RA Seals) is usually the seal sagging in the groove so that it no longer seals in the center of the rotor housing.  Detonation this bad on the factory seals is usually fracture which usually wipes out the housings and rotors too.

  To verify, put two seals face to face and see if you can see daylight in the center. 

Tracy

On Sun, Feb 13, 2011 at 10:29 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote:

To remind y'all, following very hard starting, I discovered bad apex seal springs in my rotor 2 most likely due to detonation.  I cracked the keg and replaced the rear apex springs and sealed it all back up.  While apart, I did not discover any damage other than the bad springs.

 

I have been trying to tune the engine, however, even using BOTH my EC2's, I am still having problems with very hard starting.   When I do get it to start it is at full lean and I believe only if I switch over to B.  Once started I can take the mixture from full lean to a more moderate setting (even if the tuning is still lacking) and it will run on A or B about the same.  I have reset A to factory settings.  I do have a bit larger injectors, per Mistrals recommendation, but did crank her up to 22. MAP and adjust Mode 3 once started to just over the mid point per the EC2 manual.

 

It takes an extended period of time of cranking (maybe 50 or 60 seconds...betting my starter is hating me) before it starts and then kinda just starts running as a continuation of the starter being turned, instead of the engine actually "firing up".

 

I pulled the plugs to check inside and unlike before all the apex seals are nice and springy, HOWEVER, when I do a compression check I am only getting about 60 psi on the rear rotor.  I am getting about 80 psi on the front rotor, which is what I expected.

 

Guys and Gals, I just rebuilt this rear rotor.  I am confidant that I got it together properly...but, obviously, I shouldn't be so confidant as the facts is the facts. The rear rotor is only 60 psi which IF I understand correctly would lead to hard starting (and perhaps some rough running as the engine does not seem as smooth when running as it has in the past).

 

I have been getting it to run with much effort over the last few weeks but kept it at lower power.  Today, however I did run it up for several seconds and was able to produce a steady 6300 RPM at 33.4 MAP.

 

I had it suggested that the new springs needed some time to "set", but I am not really thinking this holds water...or compression for that matter.  I also tried squirting in some MM oil and compression did come up a bit, but the REALLY hard start remains.

 

I am once again mostly resigned to tearing open the engine to see what I must have missed.  But since I am pretty sure I did it right before WHAT, pray tell, may you fine gentlepersons suggest I look for when/if I open her up again????  Or, even better, suggestions that would prevent a teardown.  FYI, the plugs looked like I would have expected....brownish ashy with no oil build up. Also, I am not having any current indication of coolant in the chambers (don't ask me how I know how to look for that tell tale sign [-(

 

Please feel free to ask probing questions regarding my method and or attempts.

 

I am betting ya'll are getting tired of hearing from me.....

 

Chris Barber

Houston