Doug,
Hopefully your engine was not turned or "banged around on" in the process of removing your pulley.........If
you have been lucky try this............Carefully wedge the flywheel end of the eccentric shaft toward the pulley
end of the engine without rotating the engine..........Then carefully slide a very narrow screwdriver between
the shaft and front seal until you feel the CAS gear (#7) and see if there is any movement toward the front
of the a/c..........With luck there will not have been any rearward movement of any of the parts pictured that
would have allowed the thrust brg spacer (#3) to move forward and allowed either thrust brg (#'s 2) to slip
from the center of the spacer and allow then to be trapped between either of the thrust races (#'s1&5) which
would allow them to be crushed when the pulley is torqued in place.................The spacer (#3) is available in
different widths and determines the important thrust brg clearance..............
If you can detect any movement of this part stack toward the a/c front this calls for removal of the front cover
to re-stack all these parts unfortunately...............<:)
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: "DLOMHEIM@aol.com" <DLOMHEIM@aol.com>
To: keltro@att.net
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 9:18:32 PM
Subject: Yikes...
Kelly; Your wrote:
"Hope you were careful not to allow the oil pump gear to move forward or turn the engine which can
let the thrust bearing spacer move forward and the bearing slip down between it and the thrust races !!
Removal of the front hub (Racing Beat Pulley/Hub in this case) without doing an intentional teardown
is best done with the engine sitting on its flywheel end and with a spacer holding the excentric shaft in
the up position............"
Wow, I can't believe it could be that difficult to remove a pulley! Is there a way to know when I put the pulley back in, whether those thrust races moved and will therefore be messed up or not?
I guess I'm going to have to get my Haynes book out and see if there is a schematic which shows what you're talking about. So if you ever need to pull that pulley you have to basically pull the engine and stand it on end?! Surely the Mazda engineers could have come up with a better mouse trap to preclude having to do that; couldn't they???
One other question; as you know I have one of the bed mounts that Fred Breese actually delivered and I am getting close to the point where I'm going to want to mount the engine on it and not pull it off again. I went to the Mazda dealer in Norman and paid some crazy money $19 or so each for the stock oil pan gaskets (one for each side). I now am wondering if I should just use some ultra grey permatex as I have seen some guys mention on the newsgroup; or what about running some silk thread down both sides of halves (like I learned at my A&P some years ago) just like when you put Lycoming case halves back together after a tear down...
Your thoughts?
Merry Christmas!
Doug