X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail-ew0-f44.google.com ([209.85.215.44] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.11) with ESMTP id 4640670 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 14 Dec 2010 07:32:07 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.215.44; envelope-from=msteitle@gmail.com Received: by ewy8 with SMTP id 8so293177ewy.31 for ; Tue, 14 Dec 2010 04:31:33 -0800 (PST) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=domainkey-signature:mime-version:received:received:in-reply-to :references:date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=K84uf4u2DPqO9oZ8Pp7JbPMYX12OV5wE2E9L6tOMdIo=; b=GPec92JLppnmePORaBjPzvJwA7D9hqQtdspi9/fmqcBrFUmu2w+legHU7KnAjr1k/N Yqoh73I1auOyOYwXqywc4ZprkDlh3yEKEJ4/ZGAqcgFe3N80oXnTRHrdycpkdEbDY1s3 osKAq+byQo+QNWG8QfoNkLef57iENhaBpdqMM= DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; b=foAOJJycSJgIkmloDj409PC3oohy8R384RxlcddBpR7Q+oQYVM7yE350DXlaZ9WRPy vwB5HngsaBoKFIE0PvC0u46ro7X+azpMhy6bNM84L/f/kqW45sqmSOg54fNeOF8ToZdT GAeWe7MAjnKRJywYW5YTThnRPQPHFTI5ZaBWk= MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: by 10.213.28.138 with SMTP id m10mr398672ebc.49.1292329893385; Tue, 14 Dec 2010 04:31:33 -0800 (PST) Received: by 10.213.21.146 with HTTP; Tue, 14 Dec 2010 04:31:33 -0800 (PST) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 06:31:33 -0600 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Yikes... From: Mark Steitle To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=0015174c45143a57d504975e004a --0015174c45143a57d504975e004a Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Doug, Do you have a 13B manual? If not, you can download one for free from http://www.iluvmyrx7.com. Go to pages 40 & 42 and you can see how the front hub & bearings go together. Make sure that the thrust bearings are not being pinched by the "end play" spacer. The thrust bearings must be positioned over the "end play" spacer. Mark S. On Mon, Dec 13, 2010 at 10:05 PM, Kelly Troyer wrote: > Doug, > Hopefully your engine was not turned or "banged around on" in the > process of removing your pulley.........If > you have been lucky try this............Carefully wedge the flywheel end of > the eccentric shaft toward the pulley > end of the engine without rotating the engine..........Then carefully slide > a very narrow screwdriver between > the shaft and front seal until you feel the CAS gear (#7) and see if there > is any movement toward the front > of the a/c..........With luck there will not have been any rearward > movement of any of the parts pictured that > would have allowed the thrust brg spacer (#3) to move forward and allowed > either thrust brg (#'s 2) to slip > from the center of the spacer and allow then to be trapped between either > of the thrust races (#'s1&5) which > would allow them to be crushed when the pulley is torqued in > place.................The spacer (#3) is available in > different widths and determines the important thrust brg > clearance.............. > > If you can detect any movement of this part stack toward the a/c front > this calls for removal of the front cover > to re-stack all these parts unfortunately...............<:) > > > > [image: Engine Front End Pieces] > > > Kelly Troyer > *"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)* > > "13B ROTARY"_ Engine > "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 > "MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold > > "TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* "DLOMHEIM@aol.com" > *To:* keltro@att.net > *Sent:* Mon, December 13, 2010 9:18:32 PM > *Subject:* Yikes... > > Kelly; Your wrote: > > "Hope you were careful not to allow the oil pump gear to move forward or > turn the engine which can > let the thrust bearing spacer move forward and the bearing slip down > between it and the thrust races !! > Removal of the front hub (Racing Beat Pulley/Hub in this case) > without doing an intentional teardown > is best done with the engine sitting on its flywheel end and with a spacer > holding the excentric shaft in > the up position............" > > > Wow, I can't believe it could be that difficult to remove a pulley! Is > there a way to know when I put the pulley back in, whether those thrust > races moved and will therefore be messed up or not? > > I guess I'm going to have to get my Haynes book out and see if there is a > schematic which shows what you're talking about. So if you ever need to > pull that pulley you have to basically pull the engine and stand it on > end?! Surely the Mazda engineers could have come up with a better mouse > trap to preclude having to do that; couldn't they??? > > One other question; as you know I have one of the bed mounts that Fred > Breese actually delivered and I am getting close to the point where I'm > going to want to mount the engine on it and not pull it off again. I went > to the Mazda dealer in Norman and paid some crazy money $19 or so each for > the stock oil pan gaskets (one for each side). I now am wondering if I > should just use some ultra grey permatex as I have seen some guys mention on > the newsgroup; or what about running some silk thread down both sides of > halves (like I learned at my A&P some years ago) just like when you put > Lycoming case halves back together after a tear down... > > Your thoughts? > > Merry Christmas! > > Doug > > > > > --0015174c45143a57d504975e004a Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Doug,

Do you have a 13B manual? =A0If not, you can downl= oad one for free from http://www.iluvm= yrx7.com. =A0Go to pages 40 & 42 and you can see how the front hub = & bearings go together. =A0Make sure that the thrust bearings are not b= eing pinched by the "end play" spacer. =A0The thrust bearings mus= t be positioned over the "end play" spacer. =A0

Mark S.

On Mon, Dec 1= 3, 2010 at 10:05 PM, Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net> wrote:
Doug,
=A0=A0=A0 Hopefully your engine was not turned or "banged around = on" in the process of removing your pulley.........If
you have been lucky try this............Carefully wedge the flywheel e= nd of the eccentric shaft toward the pulley
end of the engine without rotating the engine..........Then carefully= =A0slide a very narrow screwdriver between
the shaft and front seal until you feel the=A0CAS gear (#7) and see if= there is any movement toward the front
of the a/c..........With luck there will not have been any=A0rearward = movement of any of the parts pictured that
would have allowed the thrust brg spacer (#3) to move forward and allo= wed either thrust brg (#'s 2)=A0to slip
from the center of the spacer and allow then to be trapped between=A0e= ither of the=A0thrust races (#'s1&5) which
would allow them to be crushed when the pulley is torqued in place....= .............The spacer (#3) is available in
different widths and=A0determines the important thrust brg clearance..= ............
=A0
=A0 If you can detect any movement=A0of this part stack toward the a/c= front this calls for removal of the front cover
to re-stack all these parts unfortunately...............<:)=A0
=A0
=A0
=A0
=A0=A03D"Engine
=A0

Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)

"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"= MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold

"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo



From: "DLOMHEIM@aol.com" <DLOMHEIM@aol.com>To: keltro@att.net
Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010= 9:18:32 PM
Subject: Yike= s...

Kelly; Your wrote:=A0
=A0
"Hope you were careful not to allow the oil pump gear to move for= ward or turn the engine which can
let the thrust bearing spacer move forward and the bearing slip down b= etween it and the thrust races !!
Removal of the front hub (Racing Beat Pulley/Hub in this case) without= =A0doing an=A0intentional teardown
is best done with the engine sitting on its flywheel end and with a sp= acer holding the excentric shaft in
the up position............"
=A0
=A0
Wow, I can't believe it could be=A0that difficult to remove a pull= ey!=A0 Is there a way to know when I put=A0the pulley back in, whether thos= e thrust races moved and will therefore be=A0messed up or not?=A0
=A0
I guess I'm going to have to get my Haynes book out and see if the= re is a schematic which shows what you're talking about.=A0 So if you e= ver need to pull that pulley you have to basically pull the engine and stan= d it on end?!=A0 Surely the Mazda engineers could have come up with=A0a bet= ter mouse trap to preclude having to do that; couldn't they???
=A0
One other question; as you know I have one of the bed mounts that Fred= Breese actually delivered and I am getting close to the point where I'= m going to want to mount the engine on it and not pull it off again.=A0 I w= ent to the Mazda dealer in Norman and paid some crazy money $19 or so each = for the stock oil pan gaskets (one for each side).=A0 I now am wondering if= I should just use some ultra grey permatex as I have seen some guys mentio= n on the newsgroup; or what about running some silk thread down=A0both side= s of halves=A0(like I learned at my A&P some=A0years ago)=A0just like w= hen you put Lycoming case halves back together after a tear down...
=A0
Your thoughts?=A0
=A0
Merry=A0Christmas!
=A0
Doug=A0=A0=A0=A0
=A0
=A0
=A0
=A0

--0015174c45143a57d504975e004a--