If the oil to water unit is the only source for oil cooling it needs to reject nearly 1/3 of all BTUs. I tried a Callies unit (the crank shaft people) on the racer. It worked fine but then my coolant temps were too high.

 

Even though I used a Griffin 19" by 31" two row radiator in a dual pass layout.

 

The Callies was also heavy when empty, and dreadfully heavy when full of coolant.

 

A smaller oil to water as a boost for a big air to oil cooler might be better.

 

The Callies just had a regular air to oil cooler inside a box full of water. I cut it open and used the air to oil cooler for the transmission cooler. Still in there. Works fine.

 

Also if temps are close to acceptable now just running an aluminum tube through an end tank on the radiator

might be enough. Or even a smaller unit as a booster. The oil to water units are very effective.

 

For years we used two GM Harrison AC evaporator cores for water and one for oil cooling. Cheap and very effective. The smaller package allows for remote locating. One needs only air flow piped to the cooler.

 

I used the stock heater outlet for pressure and a pipe in the radiator tank next to the return hose. Flows like the wind.

 

A foam free oil makes things way better for oil cooling. A racing synthetic (after 3 to 6 hours of fast idle break-in) is what we used. Redline 40 wt. But other brands do well also. The racing versions, not the street oils.

 

Tech welding can do anything you want.

 

Lynn E. Hanover