X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-db01.mx.aol.com ([205.188.91.95] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.11) with ESMTP id 4639337 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 13 Dec 2010 09:26:52 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.91.95; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from imo-ma03.mx.aol.com (imo-ma03.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.138]) by imr-db01.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id oBDEQFWl012336 for ; Mon, 13 Dec 2010 09:26:15 -0500 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-ma03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v42.9.) id q.f53.9e9ea8a (56030) for ; Mon, 13 Dec 2010 09:26:10 -0500 (EST) Received: from magic-m22.mail.aol.com (magic-m22.mail.aol.com [172.20.22.195]) by cia-md08.mx.aol.com (v129.7) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMD084-dade4d062d02308; Mon, 13 Dec 2010 09:26:10 -0500 From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <52928.65e58efa.3a378702@aol.com> Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 09:26:10 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fw: Water temps To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_52928.65e58efa.3a378702_boundary" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5382 X-AOL-IP: 72.187.199.116 X-Spam-Flag:NO X-AOL-SENDER: Lehanover@aol.com --part1_52928.65e58efa.3a378702_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the oil to water unit is the only source for oil cooling it needs to reject nearly 1/3 of all BTUs. I tried a Callies unit (the crank shaft people) on the racer. It worked fine but then my coolant temps were too high. Even though I used a Griffin 19" by 31" two row radiator in a dual pass layout. The Callies was also heavy when empty, and dreadfully heavy when full of coolant. A smaller oil to water as a boost for a big air to oil cooler might be better. The Callies just had a regular air to oil cooler inside a box full of water. I cut it open and used the air to oil cooler for the transmission cooler. Still in there. Works fine. Also if temps are close to acceptable now just running an aluminum tube through an end tank on the radiator might be enough. Or even a smaller unit as a booster. The oil to water units are very effective. For years we used two GM Harrison AC evaporator cores for water and one for oil cooling. Cheap and very effective. The smaller package allows for remote locating. One needs only air flow piped to the cooler. I used the stock heater outlet for pressure and a pipe in the radiator tank next to the return hose. Flows like the wind. A foam free oil makes things way better for oil cooling. A racing synthetic (after 3 to 6 hours of fast idle break-in) is what we used. Redline 40 wt. But other brands do well also. The racing versions, not the street oils. Tech welding can do anything you want. Lynn E. Hanover --part1_52928.65e58efa.3a378702_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

If the oil to water unit is the only source for oil cooling it needs= to=20 reject nearly 1/3 of all BTUs. I tried a Callies unit (the crank shaft peo= ple)=20 on the racer. It worked fine but then my coolant temps were too high.

Even though I used a Griffin 19" by 31" two row radiator in a dual pa= ss=20 layout.

The Callies was also heavy when empty, and dreadfully heavy when full= of=20 coolant.

A smaller oil to water as a boost for a big air to oil cooler might= be=20 better.

The Callies just had a regular air to oil cooler inside a box full of= =20 water. I cut it open and used the air to oil cooler for the transmission= cooler.=20 Still in there. Works fine.

Also if temps are close to acceptable now just running an aluminum tu= be=20 through an end tank on the radiator

might be enough. Or even a smaller unit as a booster. The oil to wate= r=20 units are very effective.

For years we used two GM Harrison AC evaporator cores for water and= one for=20 oil cooling. Cheap and very effective. The smaller package allows for remo= te=20 locating. One needs only air flow piped to the cooler.

I used the stock heater outlet for pressure and a pipe in the radiato= r tank=20 next to the return hose. Flows like the wind.

A foam free oil makes things way better for oil cooling. A racing syn= thetic=20 (after 3 to 6 hours of fast idle break-in) is what we used. Redline 40 wt.= But=20 other brands do well also. The racing versions, not the street oils.<= /DIV>

Tech welding can do anything you want.

Lynn E. Hanover

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