bought an induction-type timing light, pulled the prop off, put the 3000rpm pill in the msd box, and ran my engine today.  starts easier without the prop on, plus the weather was warmer.  timing appears to be dead on 22° like I intended.  what confuses me is that when I move the timing light clip to the other rotor[#2], the light quits firing.  I pulled #2 lead plug and cranked the engine and saw a spark, and the engine actually started and ran on one rotor[#1].  both lead rotor plugs fire together from a dual post coil[waste spark].  not sure why the timing light appears to show that #2 isn't firing.  when I switched posts, then it showed #1 wasn't firing.  so it seems that the plug wire is bad, except when I pull the plug and lay it on the block, I can see it sparking.  the plug wires are blue silicon, with a rigid, spiral wound core wire.  they were originally from the Jeff rose electronic ignition on my Lycoming.  perhaps they confuse the timing light?  should I pull out my old timing light that used a "T" shaped spring coil to pick up the voltage? [pre-induction style]  guess I should test wire continuity.(?)
the engine still won't rev past about 1500 rpm. [assume it is in transition to main jets?] I am wondering if the gravity-fed fuel doesn't create enough flow/pressure.  I need someone to tell me what electric fuel pump [for a Weber carb] I should buy.  the facet that's in my RV is too noisy, and seems inadequate for continuous loads.
at 1000rpm I see 60 lbs oil pressure.  is this adequate?
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