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bought an induction-type timing light,
pulled the prop off, put the 3000rpm pill in the msd box, and ran my engine
today. starts easier without the prop on, plus the weather was
warmer. timing appears to be dead on 22° like I intended. what
confuses me is that when I move the timing light clip to the other rotor[#2],
the light quits firing. I pulled #2 lead plug and cranked the engine
and saw a spark, and the engine actually started and ran on one rotor[#1].
both lead rotor plugs fire together from a dual post coil[waste spark].
not sure why the timing light appears to show that #2 isn't firing. when I
switched posts, then it showed #1 wasn't firing. so it seems that the
plug wire is bad, except when I pull the plug and lay it on the block, I can see
it sparking. the plug wires are blue silicon, with a rigid, spiral wound
core wire. they were originally from the Jeff rose electronic ignition on
my Lycoming. perhaps they confuse the timing light? should I pull
out my old timing light that used a "T" shaped spring coil to pick up the
voltage? [pre-induction style] guess I should test wire
continuity.(?)
the engine still won't rev past about 1500
rpm. [assume it is in transition to main jets?] I am wondering if the
gravity-fed fuel doesn't create enough flow/pressure. I need someone to
tell me what electric fuel pump [for a Weber carb] I should buy. the facet
that's in my RV is too noisy, and seems inadequate for continuous
loads.
at 1000rpm I see 60 lbs oil pressure. is
this adequate?
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