X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from qmta06.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.30.56] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.5) with ESMTP id 4217220 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:17:30 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=76.96.30.56; envelope-from=n3773@comcast.net Received: from omta01.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.30.11]) by qmta06.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 40Lb1e0030EPchoA63Gv1A; Sun, 11 Apr 2010 03:16:55 +0000 Received: from rv8 ([71.237.248.186]) by omta01.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net with comcast id 43Gu1e007422aQ78M3GvsF; Sun, 11 Apr 2010 03:16:55 +0000 Message-ID: <30FB8F161309421E94B16002748AFD21@rv8> Reply-To: "kevin lane" From: "kevin lane" To: "flyrotary" Subject: ignition confusion Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 20:16:24 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00A9_01CAD8EA.B147F3B0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.5843 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.5579 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01CAD8EA.B147F3B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable bought an induction-type timing light, pulled the prop off, put the = 3000rpm pill in the msd box, and ran my engine today. starts easier = without the prop on, plus the weather was warmer. timing appears to be = dead on 22=B0 like I intended. what confuses me is that when I move the = timing light clip to the other rotor[#2], the light quits firing. I = pulled #2 lead plug and cranked the engine and saw a spark, and the = engine actually started and ran on one rotor[#1]. both lead rotor plugs = fire together from a dual post coil[waste spark]. not sure why the = timing light appears to show that #2 isn't firing. when I switched = posts, then it showed #1 wasn't firing. so it seems that the plug wire = is bad, except when I pull the plug and lay it on the block, I can see = it sparking. the plug wires are blue silicon, with a rigid, spiral = wound core wire. they were originally from the Jeff rose electronic = ignition on my Lycoming. perhaps they confuse the timing light? should = I pull out my old timing light that used a "T" shaped spring coil to = pick up the voltage? [pre-induction style] guess I should test wire = continuity.(?) the engine still won't rev past about 1500 rpm. [assume it is in = transition to main jets?] I am wondering if the gravity-fed fuel doesn't = create enough flow/pressure. I need someone to tell me what electric = fuel pump [for a Weber carb] I should buy. the facet that's in my RV is = too noisy, and seems inadequate for continuous loads. at 1000rpm I see 60 lbs oil pressure. is this adequate? KevinLane Carpentry www.KevinLaneCarpentry.com ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01CAD8EA.B147F3B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

bought an induction-type timing = light,=20 pulled the prop off, put the 3000rpm pill in the msd box, and ran my = engine=20 today. starts easier without the prop on, plus the weather was=20 warmer. timing appears to be dead on 22=B0 like I intended. = what=20 confuses me is that when I move the timing light clip to the other = rotor[#2],=20 the light quits firing. I pulled #2 lead plug and cranked the = engine=20 and saw a spark, and the engine actually started and ran on one = rotor[#1]. =20 both lead rotor plugs fire together from a dual post coil[waste = spark]. =20 not sure why the timing light appears to show that #2 isn't = firing. when I=20 switched posts, then it showed #1 wasn't firing. so it = seems that the=20 plug wire is bad, except when I pull the plug and lay it on the block, I = can see=20 it sparking. the plug wires are blue silicon, with a rigid, spiral = wound=20 core wire. they were originally from the Jeff rose electronic = ignition on=20 my Lycoming. perhaps they confuse the timing light? should I = pull=20 out my old timing light that used a "T" shaped spring coil to pick up = the=20 voltage? [pre-induction style] guess I should test wire=20 continuity.(?)

the engine still won't rev past about = 1500=20 rpm. [assume it is in transition to main jets?] I am wondering = if the=20 gravity-fed fuel doesn't create enough flow/pressure. I need = someone to=20 tell me what electric fuel pump [for a Weber carb] I should buy. = the facet=20 that's in my RV is too noisy, and seems inadequate for continuous=20 loads.

at 1000rpm I see 60 lbs oil = pressure. is=20 this adequate?

KevinLane Carpentry
www.KevinLaneCarpentry.com=

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