Have you considered using a Laminova type oil/water exchanger? They're relatively light, compact, work well, and come in a variety of sizes.
Mark S.
On Fri, Dec 18, 2009 at 9:13 PM, Thomas Mann <tmann@n200lz.com> wrote:
Thanks all ……
Okay …. So here’s what I’m taking away here.
Coolant style heat exchanger at the oil filter location : Not currently being used in known rotary applications. Consensus is that it is not sufficient.
Oil Cooler in the radiator? I read where Tracy (in an early version) tried running a coolant coil through the oil pan.
So is everyone running a separate oil cooler?
I’m putting this in a canard and will be using the P-51 style scoop. I’ve bounced back and forth between that and a NACA scoop. After reading an article on the ‘Meredith Effect’ I settled on the P-51 scoop.
I’m a ways off on the engine install but I’m trying to avoid painting myself in a corner. I should be installing my engine next summer with a little luck.
T Mann
I once tried a large oil to water cooler sold by Callies Crank shaft company. It was about 20" by9" by6" thick. It worked great. Oil temps dropped to within a few degrees of water temps. But then I could not control water temps. So I suggest that it is very hard to beat a oil to water cooler for temperature transfer.
That is just not a question. It works great. But you must then increase water to air cooling capacity by 1/3 or more to maintain coolant temps in the green.
There is only air cooling no matter how you go about it.
The oil to water cooler was also very heavy when full of fluids.
I used an air chisel to remove the water jacket from the oil to water cooler, and used it as a oil to air cooler for the transmission oil. It is still in the car today.
Something as simple as an aluminum tube through a radiator tank can take out a lot of heat from the oil.
Most automobiles have a few loops of tubing in one tank to cool the automatic trans fluid.
Lynn E. Hanover
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