I have a small oil cooler core and one of
those inexpensive Pie pan blowers as my heating system. Back over 15 years ago
when I designed it, I put a shut off valve in case should there ever be a leak.
A few years later (it takes a while) it
dawn on me that you need two shut off valves or a shut off and a no-back-flow
(check value) value. The reason is, of course, the coolant can come in
through either the input or outgo lines as the coolant system is under pressure.
It is probably under a bit more pressure or less depending on where you take it
from and return it to in your coolant system. But, unless you put the return
line into the top of your header tank (or someplace where there is normally
air), a leak in your coolant system is going to leak if you only have one shut
off valve. I believe you really need two shut offs OR one capable of shutting
off both lines.
FWIW
Ed
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Greg Ward
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009
7:43 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cabin
Heat (Was Oil Cooler)
I have had that
same suggestion made to me, but to make sure there is a valve, readily
accessible to shut it off if it leaks, makes sense.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday,
December 16, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re:
Cabin Heat (Was Oil Cooler)
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary
motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Greg Ward
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009
10:32 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cabin
Heat (Was Oil Cooler)
We've been looking at the same things with our install. We
talked to our exhaust guy, and he feels that with the exhaust temps that these
rotaries have, that it might not be a good idea, (the muff). Next step
was hot water, plumbing, and a heater core inside some where, which was sort of
a negative idea. We kept all of our cooling lines exterior, so that a
coolant leak wouldn't happen inside at about 10K feet, and 200+ knots, not a
good scenario. J.C. Whitney has a small electric heater that has some
possibilities, so we are looking into that and some other ideas.
Greg Ward
Greg;
Having studied that option in the past;
I’d suggest you save your time – unless you want to add another
alternator. For effective heating you’re going to need more than 1000
watts. For a 14 volt system that’s over 70+ amps.
I don’t consider it a risk to run some
relatively small diameter, high quality, heater hose (5/8”) into the cabin to a
small heater core. I have a 7” x 7” heater core, and it puts out at least
1500 watts, or more. See Mcmaster-Carr silicone hose, part #5296K12.
Pressure test your system each annual to about 35 psi.
Al G
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