Received-SPF: pass
 receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.218.226; envelope-from=lehanover@gmail.com
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws;
        d=gmail.com; s=gamma;
        h=mime-version:date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type;
        b=juta9SHNklydLeJJx03DNMfsUcl310Q0PfhOqX1bIMCf6qyDQ5XxkHOnavxTfswELg
         VLh03jV2/VWOjln/rldieYZEz72pRRwCfjikLSWLJEPNtRojjjx4k3jj0bFrAdVXe4XD
         rMHkW5irKZQ7ZohhDp0dHl9caPknOeBxBOKN8=
MIME-Version: 1.0
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:11:30 -0500
Message-ID: <1ab24f410912161611m1e4007dewa42d3139e483cab0@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Sump Oil for 6,500 RPM
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=000325554c9e0cfae4047ae17707

--000325554c9e0cfae4047ae17707
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Lynn,

What do you suggest as racing oil for an engine that is run 6500 rpm
maximum.  The 20W-50 oil is everywhere, is that a good grade for the rotary?

Thanks
 Rino

My only experience has been with Valvoline straight 40 weight racing oil. I
used it because all of the other Mazda racers were using it. I never lost a
bearing using Valvoline. Even when busy blowing Fiat engines to pieces on
various racing oils, I never lost a bearing. I did break lots of connecting
rods and even then the big end would still spin fine on the rod throw.

Then we got well and a sponsor helped us buy some store bought big name
racing engines, and we lost both back to back. One on a warm up lap at
relatively low revs. It turned out that Mazda switched sources on their race
bearings, and added in no quality control, so a few million bucks later they
went back to their original source. Of course we had the two part racing
guarantee. I rebuilt both engines using used rotor bearings and never lost
another engine. From the new engines on we used Redline racing synthetic in
straight 40 weight at the insistence of the builder.

 We pre mixed Redline synthetic 2 cycle oil at one ounce per galon.

We do not stress the oil, because I use 9,600 RPM rev chips. The bearings
are over sized for the stress involved and all that is required is a supply
of cool oil to carry away the wedge oil heat. The film strength is very
high, but is not needed at anything below (probably) 8,500 RPM.  (about the
stock redline)

The less obvious advantage of a synthetic is that you can over heat it and
it is still oil. Not the stringy black  snot that dino oil becomes under
heat stress.

If the OMP is still in service I would use straight  30 or 40 weight
Valvoline racing oil. If you premix all of the fuel, you could use a 10W-30
racing oil in cold weather but watch for foaming and monitor the oil
pressure at operating temperature. If it will not hold up after an hour or
so, I would go back to a straight 30 weight racing in cold weather. It is
cheap enough to change regularly where a synthetic might be painful to
discard. Of course you can put the spent synthetic oil in one of those many
cars you drive, to help justify the added expense.

Although it might be a step down protection wise, If you premix, a synthetic
street oil like Mobile one would be fine.

Our record for RPM with no bearing damage was close to 14,000 RPM. Before
rev limiters, boy wonder was going down the face of the hill at Road Atlanta
and went for a 5th to 3rd gear downshift, and stuck it into 1st gear. With a
dog ring Hewland it went right in and he didn't notice the problem until he
let the clutch out. (you should not use the clutch with a dog ring trans) so
when the car turned side ways and a dog in the pits passed out.

Then the engine quit and would not restart. The rotors had touched the irons
when the crank took on an "S" shape, and the solid 5.5" clutch discs had
exploded, and the clutch would not release. I took the engine apart and
freed up the corner seal holes, sanded the irons and stuck it back together.
No problems. If that had been a piston engine, they would still be sweeping
it up. The tattle tale on the Smiths flyball tach was stuck against the back
side of the zero peg.

I do like rotaries.

Lynn E. Hanover

--000325554c9e0cfae4047ae17707
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">Lynn,</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font>=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">What do you suggest as racing oil for =
an engine that is run 6500 rpm maximum.=A0 The 20W-50 oil is everywhere, is=
 that a good=A0grade=A0for the rotary?</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial"></font>=A0</div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">Thanks</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">=A0Rino</font></div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>My only experience has been with Valvoline straight 40 weight racing o=
il. I used it because all of the other Mazda racers were using it. I never =
lost a bearing using Valvoline. Even when busy blowing Fiat engines to piec=
es on various racing oils, I never lost a bearing. I did break lots of conn=
ecting rods and even then the big end would still spin fine on the rod thro=
w. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Then we got well and a sponsor helped us buy some store bought big nam=
e racing engines, and we lost both back to back. One on a warm up lap at re=
latively low revs. It turned out that Mazda switched sources on their race =
bearings, and added in no quality control, so a few million bucks later the=
y went back to their original source. Of course we had the two part racing =
guarantee. I rebuilt both engines using used rotor bearings and never lost =
another engine. From the new engines on we used Redline racing synthetic in=
 straight 40 weight at the insistence of the builder.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>=A0We pre mixed Redline synthetic 2 cycle oil at one ounce per galon.=
=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>We do not stress the oil, because I use 9,600 RPM rev chips. The beari=
ngs are over sized for the stress involved and all that is required is a su=
pply of cool oil to carry away the wedge oil heat. The film strength is ver=
y high, but is not needed at anything below (probably) 8,500 RPM.=A0=A0(abo=
ut the stock redline)</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>The less obvious advantage of a synthetic is that you can over heat it=
 and it is still oil. Not the stringy black=A0 snot that dino oil becomes u=
nder heat stress. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>If the OMP is still in service I would use straight=A0 30 or 40 weight=
 Valvoline racing oil. If you premix all of the fuel, you could use a 10W-3=
0 racing oil in cold weather but watch for foaming and monitor the oil pres=
sure at operating temperature. If it will not hold up after an hour or so, =
I would go back to a straight 30 weight racing in cold weather. It is cheap=
 enough to change regularly where a synthetic might be painful to discard. =
Of course you can put the spent synthetic oil in one of those many cars you=
=A0drive, to help justify the added expense.=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Although it might be a step down protection wise, If you premix, a syn=
thetic street oil like Mobile one would be fine.=A0=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Our record for RPM with no bearing damage was close to 14,000 RPM. Bef=
ore rev limiters, boy wonder was going down the face of the hill at Road At=
lanta and went for a 5th to 3rd gear downshift, and stuck it into 1st gear.=
 With a dog ring Hewland it went right in and he didn&#39;t notice the prob=
lem until he let the clutch out. (you should not use the clutch with a dog =
ring trans) so when the car turned side ways and a dog in the pits passed o=
ut.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Then the engine quit and would not restart. The rotors had touched the=
 irons when the crank took on an &quot;S&quot; shape, and the solid 5.5&quo=
t; clutch discs had exploded, and the clutch would not release. I took the =
engine apart and freed up the corner seal holes, sanded the irons=A0and stu=
ck it back together. No problems. If that had been a piston engine, they wo=
uld still be sweeping it up. The tattle tale on the Smiths flyball tach was=
 stuck against the back side of the zero peg.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>I do like rotaries.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div>

--000325554c9e0cfae4047ae17707--