George,
He is probably not talking to folks who install an electrically
dependant alternative engine. If you just forget the problems that might
arise getting Tracy’s
controllers, etc, and the 12V auto starter to work on 24V, you still have to
accept the fact that that “big 24V battery” can fail. If is
does and you don’t have a second battery, it will get very quiet in the
cockpit until the screaming starts. Also don’t forget that the only
way you can get a 24V battery is to tie two 12V batteries together. If you
go with one 24V battery, you have the same battery weight plus the weight of
redundant busses. If you go with two batteries, you now have 4 times the
weight of one 12V battery. If you try to mix the systems so you have 24V
and 12V, you have a nightmare.
The only real advantage seems to me to be wire weight (smaller wire for
24V). I am pretty sure that I ate more weight for last nights dinner than
the entire wireing system in my plane :>)
If you really want to save weight in your plane, go on a diet! (I
don’t want to hear that you are 7 feet tall and weigh 120 lbs!
:>))
Bill B
Being electronically challenged I had a quick look. It says
24 volts is better for aircraft use eliminating the need for extra batteries
and alternator, I'm wondering why builders collectively don't already go that
way. Are there complications or additional expenses to be considered or are
auto conversions typically locked in to a 12 volt system for one reason or
another - perhaps just the alternator.
Some of you may have
already seen this and to others this may be knowledge that you carry
around in your head and use everyday but to someone like me whose
schooling in AC/DC (Navy)
electricity was 50 plus years ago and also something I do not use
everyday the following link has
refreshed my old brain..............Hope some of the group finds it
useful..............
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold