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When I ran cabling for Chris's project, I grounded the #2 wire to the aluminum PSRU housing, secured with the starter's mounting bolt.
Eliminates the middleman completely.
The only things grounded on the block are the temp probes, everything else has a wire going to a grounding stud and then back to the battery. Eliminates ground loops. He has a glass airplane so we were meticulous about current and return paths.
Dave
.Mark Steitle wrote:
Steve,
I read your other post on what you discovered regarding your bad ground. I wonder how many of us have our engine grounds tied to a bolt near the front cover or end housing? (Mine does...)
Mark S.
On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 6:41 AM, Steve Brooks <cozy4pilot@gmail.com <mailto:cozy4pilot@gmail.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I am thinking about just running all but the starter off of the
forward battery. Since I have two batteries, it is a relatively
easy fix. It still bugs me, what has changed.
Steve
Mark Steitle wrote:
Steve,
Early on with my project, I was beginning to start/run the
engine. I quickly discovered that sometimes it would start,
and sometimes it wouldn't. If the battery voltage dropped to
some unknown voltage the engine would not start, even though
it would continue to crank (although slower than normal). I
didn't have a working charging system at the time, so the
battery would get weaker and weaker as I continued down this
road. At the time I was using a 12v Panasonic emergency
backup supply battery. It didn't have the CCA to do more than
one or two cranks before the voltage dropped too low to
possibly start the engine. I must have damaged the battery in
the process as a new battery solved the problem. You stated
that you installed a new battery, but you didn't state if you
charged it up before trying to start your engine. I suggest
you 1) charge the new battery to 100%, 2) hook up the starter
to a spare battery for cranking. Personally, I think this
makes a good case for going with a 24v system. Mark S.
On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 12:40 PM, Steven W. Boese
<SBoese@uwyo.edu <mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu>
<mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu <mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu>>> wrote:
Steve,
I was able to produce symptoms similar to what you describe by
inserting a 1.5 V flashlight battery into the CAS return
wire such
that the CAS end of the wire was 1.5 V more negative than
the CAS
return wire going to the EC2:
CAS ----- battery ++++ EC2
The opposite polarity didn't cause problems. With the battery
installed, there are one or two sparks when starting to
turn the
CAS and then no more sparks until the CAS sensor is turning
significantly faster than would be the case when turning the
engine with the starter.
It seems that you may have the CAS return grounded in
addition to
the connection to the EC2. If this is the case, then the
voltage
drop from the starter current may shift the CAS return voltage
similar to what I did with the test setup. If I disconnect the
CAS from the EC2 at the EC2 connector, all the CAS wires show
infinite resistance to ground. It might be useful to see
if your
wiring is similar.
Steve Boese
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