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Message-ID: <4B09DD12.2040409@gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 18:53:38 -0600
From: Dave <david.staten@gmail.com>
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To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: No start
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When I ran cabling for Chris's project, I grounded the #2 wire to the 
aluminum PSRU housing, secured with the starter's mounting bolt.

Eliminates the middleman completely.

The only things grounded on the block are the temp probes, everything 
else has a wire going to a grounding stud and then back to the battery. 
Eliminates ground loops. He has a glass airplane so we were meticulous 
about current and return paths.

Dave

.Mark Steitle wrote:
> Steve,
>  
> I read your other post on what you discovered regarding your bad 
> ground.  I wonder how many of us have our engine grounds tied to a 
> bolt near the front cover or end housing?  (Mine does...)
>  
> Mark S.
>
> On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 6:41 AM, Steve Brooks <cozy4pilot@gmail.com 
> <mailto:cozy4pilot@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Mark,
>     I am thinking about just running all but the starter off of the
>     forward battery.  Since I have two batteries, it is a relatively
>     easy fix.  It still bugs me, what has changed.
>     Steve
>
>     Mark Steitle wrote:
>
>         Steve,
>          Early on with my project, I was beginning to start/run the
>         engine.  I quickly discovered that sometimes it would start,
>         and sometimes it wouldn't.  If the battery voltage dropped to
>         some unknown voltage the engine would not start, even though
>         it would continue to crank (although slower than normal).  I
>         didn't have a working charging system at the time, so the
>         battery would get weaker and weaker as I continued down this
>         road.  At the time I was using a 12v Panasonic emergency
>         backup supply battery.  It didn't have the CCA to do more than
>         one or two cranks before the voltage dropped too low to
>         possibly start the engine.  I must have damaged the battery in
>         the process as a new battery solved the problem.  You stated
>         that you installed a new battery, but you didn't state if you
>         charged it up before trying to start your engine.  I suggest
>         you 1) charge the new battery to 100%, 2) hook up the starter
>         to a spare battery for cranking.  Personally, I think this
>         makes a good case for going with a 24v system.  Mark S.
>          
>
>          On Sat, Nov 21, 2009 at 12:40 PM, Steven W. Boese
>         <SBoese@uwyo.edu <mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu>
>         <mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu <mailto:SBoese@uwyo.edu>>> wrote:
>
>            Steve,
>
>            I was able to produce symptoms similar to what you describe by
>            inserting a 1.5 V flashlight battery into the CAS return
>         wire such
>            that the CAS end of the wire was 1.5 V more negative than
>         the CAS
>            return wire going to the EC2:
>            CAS ----- battery ++++ EC2
>
>            The opposite polarity didn't cause problems.  With the battery
>            installed, there are one or two sparks when starting to
>         turn the
>            CAS and then no more sparks until the CAS sensor is turning
>            significantly faster than would be the case when turning the
>            engine with the starter.
>
>            It seems that you may have the CAS return grounded in
>         addition to
>            the connection to the EC2.  If this is the case, then the
>         voltage
>            drop from the starter current may shift the CAS return voltage
>            similar to what I did with the test setup.  If I disconnect the
>            CAS from the EC2 at the EC2 connector, all the CAS wires show
>            infinite resistance to ground.  It might be useful to see
>         if your
>            wiring is similar.
>
>            Steve Boese
>
>
>
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