Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #49158
From: Steve Brooks <cozy4pilot@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Need a sanity check
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 12:13:29 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
That is a good idea about the Bob Nuckolls list.  I have a split electrical system, with a battery in the front for all of the radios and instruments, and then a battery in the rear for the engine systems.  There is an isolator from the alternator, for charging both batteries.  The only connec6tion tot he front is a #10 ground wire which runs between the two buses.    I have pretty large cables (0 gauge I think) that connect from the battery to the engine block for ground, and the starter on the positive side.  There is another tap on the positive side that feeds through a master relay to the distribution buss for the fuel pumps, coils, injectors, and EC-2.  Most of the wiring from front to back, for sensors, relays, etc, run through a duct on the passenger side of the plane.  The wiring duct on the pilot side of the plane has the EC-2 to panel wiring, and that is all.  This set up worked fine for about three years.  I had a problem with the ignition switch, which is a standard Cessna type ignition, with the mag test positions.  The starter solenoid contact had some crud on it, and I had to hit the start position several times before it would engage the starter.  I removed the ignition switch, took it apart, cleaned it up and reassembled it.  That fixed the problem, but it seems that my starting difficulties began shortly after that.  I have verified all connections from the ignition switch, as I do use the mag test positions to disable a set of coils at a time for the controller B test. I don't know if this answers your question or not.

Steve

Bill Bradburry wrote:
Steve,
Can you describe your wiring setup? Schematic and describe how the wires are
routed?  Are you using one of the Aeroelectric architectures?
I also suggest you put this question to Bob Nuckolls list. (aeroelectric-list@matronics.com)

Bill B -----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Brooks
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 10:50 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Need a sanity check

I have been working on an issue for three weeks now, with very intermittent
spark when cranking the engine.  Needless to say, it won't start either.
I have a spark plug out of each rotor, and have them clamped to a good
ground, so that I can see a spark on the front and rear rotor.
If i rotate the CAS by hand, or turn the prop by hand, I get good spark. When cranking with the starter, I get an initial spark, and then an
occasional spark on the front or rear rotor.  Interesting, when I let off
the starter, I get a couple of good sparks as it coasts to a stop.  Both controllers do the same thing BTW.

I had emailed Tracy, as at one time I thought that the EC-2 had an issue.
Tracy said that he had seen this symptom a couple of times before, and it is
caused by noise from the starter interfering with the CAS signal.  He
suggested that I install a 1K resistor across each of the crank angle
sensors.  I installed the resistors, but it did not cure the problem.

This morning, determined to get to the bottom of this, I removed the battery
cable running to the starter, and using a spare battery, and a jumper cable
for the ground, I cranked the starter with this battery, which was isolated
from the airplanes electrical system.  It had good spark on both rotors ....
yeah !!!

So then, I decided to reroute the starter cable on the other side of the
engine, which keeps it away from the other wiring.  I hooked it back up to
the aircraft battery, crossed my fingers and cranked the started.  Same problem.   I thought that perhaps the noise was getting into the EC-2, so I put the spare battery in the back seat (pusher aircraft), and
using some jumper clips, I hooked the EC-2 through a fuse to the isolated
battery.  Same problem.

I had extended the CAS wiring when I replaced the engine, so I decided to
reroute the shielded CAS wiring, so that I could eliminate the unshielded
wires, which were about 12" long.  Same problem.

I am struggling with what to try next.  This problem started before I
swapped the engine, as it was very hard to get started, though for three
years prior to that, I had no issues, and it started easily.

Has anyone else seen this type of problem, or have any suggestions ?

Steve Brooks
Cozy MKIV 13BT


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