Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net> (Marvin Kaye)
To: flyrotary
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 23:24:16 -0500
Message-ID: <redirect-1849037@logan.com>
From: Lehanover@aol.com
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: engine stands
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 10/30/2002 7:45:55 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
fly.ez@verizon.net writes:

> Wankelers,  As I posted before, my one data point experience with the 
>  > rotary,  The Harbor Freight engine stand ($39.95 on sale) fits the 
>  > rotary from the flywheel side if you are using the auto trans flex 
>  > plate.  All you need are four 10 X 1.75 X 75 mm bolts.  Trim about 10mm 
>  > (3/8") from the threads on the two you use for the bottom two holes. 
>  >  The hollow dowels in the end plate fit right into the arms of the 
>  > engine stand. When your done using it, it breaks down nicely for storage.
>  > 
>  > Rick Girard
>  
>  
>  I think the threads in the end housing are 10mm x 1.25mm (thread pitch).
>  
>  Tracy

   Or, build up three spacers with the ends of the front cover bolts welded 
in one end and a big flat washer on the other. Make the spacer long enough so 
that the end of the crank just clears the bench top. When it's time to remove 
the center cast iron you slip a wood block under the end of the crank to get 
the "angle" to remove it. No more dancing on one leg with your knee pushing 
up the crank, or calling in the guy next door to help you at midnight. I saw 
this the first time and just stood there thinking to myself. Why didn't I 
think of that? It is so obviously the thing to do. 
Lynn E. Hanover