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Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:33:10 -0700
Message-ID: <1ab24f410907082133t19e4dd3cu611ade0aa0a0ff53@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: SAG-Spark plugs
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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So, I am guessing by this thread that it is ok to use the none shrouded
stock NKG plugs.  I have not looked, but now assume that the more standard
type automotive plug fits even with it longer electrodes extending further
out.

There are a very large number of tip designs available in spark plugs. In
engines with cast iron heads you find short (low reach  length) plugs with
extended tips. Where the porcelain is visible in a side view.
You can also find very long reach plugs with extended tips. It may be
possible to install one of those plugs and find that the ground electrode
has touched the inside of the housing.

None of the plugs in the picture is long enough to touch anything. The
longest is the NGK and it is passed out to competitors by Mazda Competition
department (Mazda Comp) for use in rotary engines.

If there is the slightest bit of discomfort about changing plugs, then stick
with what you have now. The cold racing plugs tend to foul  do to the low
tip temperatures. But any plug is going to foul with lead salts in 100LL.
Going to a higher heat range is out of the question as far as I'm concerned.
Too much chance for damaged porcelain or a melted out plug hole. Same thing
for a piston engine. Take a set of new plugs and a wrench with you always.

I use a tiny paint brush to apply Nickle antisieze to the first few threads
of each plug. It is conductive, so don't get it on the tip. Torque to the
lowest number for your engine. As in: if it says 14 to 16, use 14.

Lynn E. Hanover

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">So, I am=
 guessing by this thread that it is ok to use the none shrouded stock NKG p=
lugs.=A0 I have not looked, but now assume that the more standard type auto=
motive=A0plug fits even=A0with it longer electrodes extending further out.<=
/font></div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">There are a very large number of tip designs available in =
spark plugs. In engines with cast iron heads you find short (low reach=A0 l=
ength) plugs with extended tips. Where the porcelain is visible in a side v=
iew.</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">You can also find very long reach plugs with extended tips=
. It may be possible to install one of those plugs and find that the ground=
 electrode has touched the inside of the housing. </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">None of the plugs in the picture is long enough to touch a=
nything. The longest is the NGK and it is passed out to competitors by Mazd=
a Competition department (Mazda Comp)=A0for use in rotary engines. </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">If there is the slightest bit of discomfort about changing=
 plugs, then stick with what you have now. The cold racing plugs tend to fo=
ul=A0 do to the low tip temperatures. But any plug is going to foul with le=
ad salts in 100LL. Going to a higher heat range is out of the question as f=
ar as I&#39;m concerned. Too much chance for damaged porcelain or a melted =
out plug hole. Same thing for a piston engine. Take a set of new plugs and =
a wrench with you always.</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">I use a tiny paint brush to apply Nickle antisieze to the =
first few threads of each plug. It is conductive, so don&#39;t get it on th=
e tip. Torque to the lowest number for your engine. As in: if it says 14 to=
 16, use 14.=A0=A0</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Lynn E. Hanover</div>

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