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Mark
Please remove me from your mailing lists.
taspilot@cox.net
---- Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote:
Jeff,
I have done as Bill describes, using an impact wrench. If you use the
hand-hold method, use a glove. My only comment is that some alternators
have right-hand thread, others have left-hand, depending on the direction
they are designed to turn. So, look closely at the end of the shaft to make
sure you're turning it the correct direction.
Mark S.
On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 11:50 AM, Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net>wrote:
> Jeff, my alternator guy just holds the pulley with his left hand and
> hits the nut with an impact wrench and it spins right off. It is right hand
> threads though….lefty tighty, righty loosey!
>
> If you discover that my alternator guy has a really strong left hand, you
> can use Lynn's suggestion of a strap wrench.. :>)
>
>
>
> Bill B
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] *On
> Behalf Of *Jeff Whaley
> *Sent:* Monday, December 01, 2008 12:14 PM
> *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft
> *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Front Nut, Thermostat and Coolant Intake hose
> was : [FlyRotary] Re: Hot first flight
>
> Hi Ed, I don't want to change the main e-shaft pulley … I was thinking of
> changing the ALTERNATOR double-groove pulley … the belt got jammed in the
> alternator pulley; the alternator and top cowling were powdered with rubber
> residue.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] *On
> Behalf Of *Ed Anderson
> *Sent:* Monday, December 01, 2008 11:58 AM
> *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft
> *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Front Nut, Thermostat and Coolant Intake hose was :
> [FlyRotary] Re: Hot first flight
>
>
>
> *FONT NUT CAUTION*
>
>
>
> Jeff, as Tracy mentioned – delay changing the main pulley until a bit later
> (unless its clear there is a defect in it) because if you DO let the thrust
> bearing slip off its shoulder on the E shaft – it's a minimum of taking the
> front cover off the engine (next to firewall) to get to it. In most cases,
> due to limited space under the cowl and motor mounts, you end up taking the
> engine off the aircraft. That's not fun any time and I imagine even less so
> with temps in the 30F range.
>
>
>
> BUT, if you decide you HAVE to replace the main pulley without removing the
> engine, here is a suggestion.
>
>
>
> Raise the tail of your aircraft as high in the air as you safely can. This
> will tend to keep the thrust bearing toward the rear of the engine (front of
> aircraft) where it rests against a spacer. That way the shock of an impact
> wrench will not have as much tendency to "walk" the bearing forward and off
> its shoulder. No guarantee it won't get out of position – just a bit less
> likely - than if the nose is up.
>
>
>
> There are some instructions in the Mazda manual or somewhere that tells you
> how to determine if the thrust bearing has falling out of position by taking
> some measurements based on how far you can get the pulley nut back on the
> shaft – but, I can't recall at the moment where they and you really don't
> want to go there at this time in any case.
>
>
>
> THERMOSTAT
>
>
>
> I believe I read about the loss of efficiency by leaving out the plug in
> one of Racing Beat's old technical catalogs and I am fairly certain they
> mentioned 20%. Well, I looked in one of their old catalogs and while I did
> not find a specific percentage mentioned (at least in my quick search), this
> is a quote from them:
>
> Quote :
>
> "
>
> 7. Mazda's water thermostat is a "by-pass" type (*apparently
> referring to the ½" by-pass hole*). Therefore, if it is removed for
> racing, the hole below it *MUST* be *plugged*……
>
> … NOTE: The thermostat should be removed and the *bypass plugged* for
> racing. Do not use restrictors in the system. Free Flow is best.
>
>
>
> "
>
> RADIATOR INTAKE HOSE
>
>
>
> Another thing Racing Beat cautions about - is making certain that the
> radiator hose on the suction side is the type that has a spring coiled in
> side or is otherwise stiff enough to resist collapsing under the suction of
> the water pump. If that happens, of courses, your coolant flowed is
> seriously impeded.
>
>
>
> The hose may be able to resist the suction at idle or low rpm, but may not
> at the higher rpm. If you squeeze the hose and can deform it with your
> hand pressure , then it is likely too flimsy to serve as the radiator hose
> on the intake side of the pump.
>
>
>
> You are 99% there, Jeff. So no rash action, just take it one step at a
> time {:>) – easy for me to say.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>
> Matthews, NC
>
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
> http://www.andersonee.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW<http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm>
>
> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>
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