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Message-ID: <20081204171134.QPMJ8.408958.imail@eastrmwml43>
Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2008 17:11:34 -0500
From:  <taspilot@cox.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Front Nut, Thermostat and Coolant Intake hose
 was : [FlyRotary] Re: Hot first flight
Cc: Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com>
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Mark
Please remove me from your mailing lists.
taspilot@cox.net

---- Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com> wrote:=20
Jeff,

I have done as Bill describes, using an impact wrench.  If you use the
hand-hold method, use a glove.  My only comment is that some alternators
have right-hand thread, others have left-hand, depending on the direction
they are designed to turn.  So, look closely at the end of the shaft to mak=
e
sure you're turning it the correct direction.

Mark S.

On Mon, Dec 1, 2008 at 11:50 AM, Bill Bradburry <bbradburry@bellsouth.net>w=
rote:

>   Jeff, my alternator guy just holds the pulley with his left hand and
> hits the nut with an impact wrench and it spins right off.  It is right h=
and
> threads though=E2=80=A6.lefty tighty, righty loosey!
>
> If you discover that my alternator guy has a really strong left hand, you
> can use Lynn's suggestion of a strap wrench..  :>)
>
>
>
> Bill B
>
>
>  ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] *O=
n
> Behalf Of *Jeff Whaley
> *Sent:* Monday, December 01, 2008 12:14 PM
> *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft
> *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Front Nut, Thermostat and Coolant Intake hose
> was : [FlyRotary] Re: Hot first flight
>
> Hi Ed, I don't want to change the main e-shaft pulley =E2=80=A6 I was thi=
nking of
> changing the ALTERNATOR double-groove pulley =E2=80=A6 the belt got jamme=
d in the
> alternator pulley; the alternator and top cowling were powdered with rubb=
er
> residue.
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
> *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] *O=
n
> Behalf Of *Ed Anderson
> *Sent:* Monday, December 01, 2008 11:58 AM
> *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft
> *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Front Nut, Thermostat and Coolant Intake hose was =
:
> [FlyRotary] Re: Hot first flight
>
>
>
> *FONT NUT CAUTION*
>
>
>
> Jeff, as Tracy mentioned =E2=80=93 delay changing the main pulley until a=
 bit later
> (unless its clear there is a defect in it) because if you DO let the thru=
st
> bearing slip off its shoulder on the E shaft =E2=80=93 it's a minimum of =
taking the
> front cover off the engine (next to firewall) to get to it.  In most case=
s,
> due to limited space under the cowl and motor mounts, you end up taking t=
he
> engine off the aircraft.  That's not fun any time and I imagine even less=
 so
> with temps in the 30F range.
>
>
>
> BUT, if you decide you HAVE to replace the main pulley without removing t=
he
> engine, here is a suggestion.
>
>
>
> Raise the tail of your aircraft as high in the air as you safely can.  Th=
is
> will tend to keep the thrust bearing toward the rear of the engine (front=
 of
> aircraft) where it rests against a spacer.  That way the shock of an impa=
ct
> wrench will not have as much tendency to "walk" the bearing forward and o=
ff
> its shoulder.  No guarantee it won't get out of position =E2=80=93 just a=
 bit less
> likely - than if the nose is up.
>
>
>
> There are some instructions in the Mazda manual or somewhere that tells y=
ou
> how to determine if the thrust bearing has falling out of position by tak=
ing
> some measurements based on how far you can get the pulley nut back on the
> shaft  =E2=80=93 but, I can't  recall  at the moment where they and you r=
eally don't
> want to go there at this time in any case.
>
>
>
> THERMOSTAT
>
>
>
> I believe I read about the loss of efficiency by leaving out the plug in
> one of Racing Beat's old technical catalogs and I am fairly certain they
> mentioned 20%.  Well, I looked in one of their old catalogs and while I d=
id
> not find a specific percentage mentioned (at least in my quick search), t=
his
> is a quote from them:
>
> Quote :
>
> "
>
> 7.       Mazda's water thermostat is a "by-pass" type (*apparently
> referring to the =C2=BD" by-pass  hole*).  Therefore, if it is removed fo=
r
> racing, the hole below it *MUST* be *plugged*=E2=80=A6=E2=80=A6
>
> =E2=80=A6 NOTE:  The thermostat should be removed and the *bypass plugged=
* for
> racing.  Do not use restrictors in the system.  Free Flow is best.
>
>
>
> "
>
> RADIATOR INTAKE HOSE
>
>
>
> Another thing Racing Beat cautions about - is making certain that the
> radiator hose on the suction side is the type that has a spring coiled in
> side or is otherwise stiff enough to resist collapsing under the suction =
of
> the water pump.  If that happens, of courses, your coolant flowed is
> seriously impeded.
>
>
>
> The hose may be able to resist the suction at idle or low rpm, but may no=
t
> at the higher rpm.  If you squeeze the hose and can  deform it with your
> hand pressure , then it is likely too flimsy to serve as the radiator hos=
e
> on the intake side of the pump.
>
>
>
> You are 99% there, Jeff.  So no rash action, just take it one step at a
> time {:>) =E2=80=93 easy for me to say.
>
> Ed Anderson
>
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>
> Matthews, NC
>
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
> http://www.andersonee.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW<http://members.=
cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm>
>
> http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
>