Hi
Bobby,
Ok, if I understand
your set up correctly, you are measuring oil pressure BEFORE the oil filter or
the oil cooler – right out of the engine? If that is correct continue to
read – if I misunderstood then this may not be applicable.
Your oil pressure
sensor location may account for what you are seeing. Most oil pressure
references are measured as the oil pressure goes back into the engine. You
appear to be measuring it at the opposite end of the lubrication system compared
to where most measure it.
The reason for
choosing the oil inlet to the engine point for pressure measurement is that
point is where lubrication system is providing pressure for the main bearings –
so an important reason the pressure is of most interest at that point. It really
doesn’t matter (not quite true – you do need the pump to be producing pressure)
what your oil pressure is on the output end of the pump – if the oil
pressure is not sufficient on the end where it flows back into the engine
- where the lubrication system feeds the bearings – then you could
fry your bearings.
An example – lets say
your pump is good, but your oil filter or oil cooler becomes partially blocked
impeding flow severely. If you are measuring pressure before those points
you would likely see your oil pressure increasing (due to the blocked flow) –
which could give you a false sense of security – because your bearings could be
starving for oil due to the blocked flow.
But, if your pressure
sensor is not on the inflow end of the lubrication system – you would have no
direct indication that your oil pressure has drop dangerously low. The
higher reading you would be getting from the other end would probably convince
you that all is OK. At least that is a scenario that I believe is
possible.
So, In the
traditional set up that means that you have pressure drops (Losses) through your
oil filter and your oil cooler and the normal oil pressure after that (assuming
a stock oil pressure regulator) is around 70-80 psi above 4500-5000 rpm (or in
that vicinity).
The oil pump end has a
pressure controller that is
supposed to pop and release pressure if it senses pressure above 150 psi.
That is NOT the controller that regulates pressure for the system – only a
safety release say should your oil line becomes blocked (of course your bearings
wouldn’t live very long if that happened). The oil pressure regulator (normally set for a max of 80 psi
in a stock engine) is on the other end of the lubrication system at the point
the oil goes back into the engine. The point that provides oil to the
bearings – so perhaps not surprising that the regulator is located
there.
The pressure is suppose to be maintained steady
by the oil pressure regulator– so no matter what volume(flow) of oil (based on
rpm) is going through the system the pressure is held steady by the oil pressure
regulator on the inflow end.
So I suspect that
because your oil pressure sensor appears to be on the pump end of the
system and not on the end where the pressure regulator is located that you are
seeing perturbations to oil pressure (and because you don’t have the oil filter
and cooler drops) and higher oil pressure than most of us
do.
Now the pressure drops
through the oil filter and oil cooler may not be linear with flow rate (which
would dependent on oil pump/engine rpm ) or temperature (viscosity) of the
oil.
I suspect that the
cooler the oil is, the more resistance it finds in flowing through the oil
filter and oil cooler. Therefore you would see more pressure on the pump
end due to this resistance, but as the oil warmed up and flow through the filter
and cooler easier then the pressure build up before those components would drop
as would your oil pressure.
Because of your oil
pressure sensor location and the factors I mentioned above, I would expect you
to see higher oil pressure and a wider range to the perturbations to your oil
pressure based on temps than most of us see.
Since you are not using
the stock Rx-7 oil cooler, then my comments about the effect of the thermostat
on oil pressure may not be applicable.
At least, this is the
way it appears to me. Others may have a different view
point
Ed
From:
Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:21
PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New Engine Break
In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Tracy,
With the Advanced EFIS
/ engine monitor all of the instruments are factory calibrated and so far have
been correct. Oil pressure is being read directly out of the engine before
the oil filter and oil / water exchanger. I made a quick run to the airport this
afternoon and made another 15 minute ground with the inlet ducts blocked. I was
able to get the water up to 200F and climbing and oil to 165F. OAT was 75F Oil
pressure varied from 65 at idle to 105 psi at 6000 rpm. On earlier ground runs
to 7500 rpm I was only able to get the oil to 144F and water to 177F. OAT was
65F or less. and oil pressure in the 110-120 range. Warming the oil up did
seem to make a difference.
Ed,
"Bobby, depending of
where your oil pressure sensor is located (before or after the oil cooler –
assuming a stock Rx-7 oil cooler with internal thermostat). IF you
have removed the thermostat in the oil cooler and have not blocked that
thermostat opening, then a lot of the oil will not flow through the several
passages through the cooler core. This could mean you are not getting the
normal pressure drop across the oil cooler which if your sensor is down stream
would mean higher pressure at the sensor – but probably not more than 5 – 10
psi."
No thermostat in the
oil or water circuits. If the sensor placement is making a 10 psi difference
then the problem may not exist. My remote oil filter adapter has two inlets and
two outlets. I am using the second inlet for oil pressure and the second outlet
will be used to monitor the before oil cooler temp with the EM3. No room at the
engine oil pad adapter block for the pressure sender so this location was easy.
It's visible in one of the photos.
Bobby
From:
Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 11:31
AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New Engine Break
In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Odd problems. Peak Oil pressure
should not be significantly affected by temperature or oil weight.
What is it? Lower viscosity oil is not a solution. Are you sure the
instruments are right / calibrated?
Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:04 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
wrote:
I am having a problem
getting my oil temps up and oil pressure down without an oil
thermostat. Will try blocking some of the air flow this
weekend. Is 10W-40 or 10W-30 to light for the gearbox during the
winter months? I plan to run the engine for at least 20 hours on the
ground and switch back to Mobil 1 for first flight.
Bobby
From:
Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:12
AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New Engine Break
In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Next best in mineral oil is Shell
Rotella. 15W - 50 or similar.
Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 9:18 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net>
wrote:
What oil do you recommend for
breaking in a new engine that is also acceptable for the gearbox? Bruce T
said to replace the Mobile 1 for 10-15 hours so
the apex seals will seat.
Bobby J
Hughes
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