Thanks Kelly, I copied (Bill Eslick’s) installation (seen at Round-up) and the see-through aspect of that hose was a major selling point; it’s easy to see whether there’s air or fluid in the line, which is very helpful … ideally there should be fluid in the line and about 1 cup in the expansion tank; I suppose removing the cap would provide same information … but the tank has to be de-pressurized, cap removed and re-pressurized before flight.

Bill any comments on durability of that hose?

Jeff

 

 

-------------- Original message from Jeff Whaley <jwhaley@datacast.com>: --------------

Thanks to you all for the congratulatory comments … attached is a picture of expansion tank and preflight roll-out … the orange line is fuel return; the brass is pressure gauge pickup and snifter valve installation.

After reading Eds’ email I now know why the water temperature was so high.  I installed a thermostat with the onset of cold weather, but I couldn’t use the original Mazda thermostat because my temperature bulb protrudes across the bypass hole.  Originally the bypass hole was plugged and there was no thermostat; however, I removed the bypass plug and used a non-Mazda thermostat !! … so that’s why the underside of the Mazda thermostat is so long! Thanks Ed for setting me straight and based on your comment about 20% loss of efficiency, I could possibly see 230F x 0.8 or as low as 184F on next flight … that would be great! For now the thermostat is gone and bypass is re-plugged.

Closer examination of the belt and rubber deposits on underside of top cowling suggests the belt got jammed in the pulley and cut by friction.

I tried again last night to remove the alternator pulley nut … what’s the secret? Left-hand thread? Loctite or what? It’s so tight I’m afraid of damaging something trying to get it off.

Jeff