Yesterday and today I had time to check out the regulators and the injectors, all are working, had to put a four foot extension on the stethoscope to do this alone.  When I was installing the fuel bypass tubing there was much discussion, here, on the size of tubing to use, the directions with the Mallory regulator states to back out the adjusting screw and run the pumps to see if there is restriction and with the 5/16" tubing the pressure came to 3.9 #'s, a little more than Lynn stated that the Weber can take.  It would take a month of Sunday's to change the by-pass hose and fittings to -6 size, so I guess I'll install the after market needle valve.  The project started out with the 48 Weber and Tracy's electronic ignition system to fly 4 years ago and eventually install the fuel injection as a winter project at a later date.  Life gets in the way of living and plans change, so l have both carb and fuel injection, using the Weber as a throttle body, or carb, if the injection system fails.  Enclosed are two photo's of the carb, over the top manifold, with the fuel injection hidden beneath the intake manifold.  My machinist buddy made two plates of aluminum to level the carb on the intake manifold. 

 

How long on the average do you need to run the engine in 50 degree weather before it will stay running with the cold start switch off? (fuel injection) I will need to add several items on the after start check list, as in all the excitement many things were overlooked and in all this checking, you notice things that didn't quite get finished as distractions arose, there is a positive note in every thing. 

 

That gasohol is some nasty stuff, it looks like a cloud floating around in it and I got some on the pressure gauge face and it turned it to slime and when it drips, it looks like olive oil and the odor is terrible.   JohnD

 

The Weber will tolerate angles that the typical short sided carb will not. The carb is tall with a narrow float bowl. It was designed for sports car engines. When mounted fore and aft it is typical to run the rear hole a bit leaner than the front. For long runs of acceleration, where the fuel level will be at a steep angle to the rear, and then hard braking where fuel will pile up in the front of the bowl.  I run everything so rich that it makes no difference on my engines. Some is for fuel cooling, and a high flow rate leaves less time for fuel to absorb heat from the engine an create more tuning problems from fuel boiling. There is a bug screen about the size of a .45ACP cartridge under the big brass plug above the needle seat. Pull that out and discard it. It will not flow as much fuel as a big needle seat, and water can plug it up. You can screw a small fuel pressure regulator right into the carb to control fuel pressure. 

 

Alcohol in motor fuel has caused hundreds of millions in damage and lost output. It has cost lives and ruined lives. It is a shining example of the law of unintended concsequences. It cost me and the driver a weekend at Pocono speedway, a set of Marstec fuel cells and cell foam. Turned the foam into orange snot. The tree huggers never sent me a check to cover that, or to the thousands of folks who had floats disolve in their carbs. Or recover the perfectly good cars that were scrapped early because they could not be tuned properly. Or the fuel pump diaphragms that decomposed and filled crankcases with fuel. It will be seamless, they said. You won't notice a difference they said.

 

I noticed.

 

Lynn E. Hanover