X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from QMTA03.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.30.32] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.3) with ESMTP id 2961721 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 10 Jun 2008 12:46:57 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=76.96.30.32; envelope-from=cbarber@texasattorney.net Received: from OMTA01.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net ([76.96.30.11]) by QMTA03.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net with comcast id cAVn1Z0040EPchoA30TR00; Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:46:19 +0000 Received: from ChristopherNB ([98.200.107.125]) by OMTA01.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net with comcast id cGmF1Z0052iMkLq8MGmHJ7; Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:46:18 +0000 X-Authority-Analysis: v=1.0 c=1 a=xckSQH25HpAck6ZlZPgA:9 a=pOsyrPNrLWfa6QkKgLEA:7 a=OrHjnanpEx73kwdPEfo9gzqfAGMA:4 a=E0t0X0QyNCQA:10 a=QhEGPqCex3HOmUr2JUIA:9 a=2nLOr759ZCKayX4Zj7sA:7 a=I1dsOgT3FC_WyJlSd10yzUK-R-8A:4 a=AfD3MYMu9mQA:10 Message-ID: From: "Christopher Barber" To: "FlyRotary aircraft" Subject: First Start - AGAIN Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:46:10 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_1676_01C8CAEF.93FE4C10" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6000.16480 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6000.16545 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_1676_01C8CAEF.93FE4C10 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ahhh, the joys of engine development. After fiddling with getting the = timing set (thanks to y'all for this info) I was able to start my new = engine. I ran it for a few minutes while checking for leaks etc. I was = thrilled it started again.....however........ I found one leak coming from the top of the engine where I had a heater = hose inlet sealed off. It was tapped out earlier but only clamped = closed so I installed a bolt with some sealant on it and recovered it = with a end hose piece and clamped it shut. This proved a better choice. The larger concerns are this. When the engine started the Engine = Monitor was on, and I kept a diligent eye on it. After a couple of = glances at it in the cabin while looking at the engine I realized that = the monitor was not "monitoring". I grabbed my handheld laser temp = monitor and pointed it at the engine and temp was still ok. At first I = just noticed the RPM was not regersting (my first thought was I was = gonna get the NOP signal), then that the temp was not moving. After = shut down, I turned the monitor off and back on and instantly the = monitor started working again. Hmmmmmm. The monitor was mistakenly = left on overnight and I am guessing it "froze up" during this time, but = I would have not thought leaving it on would have done this. It also = worked on my three subsequent short starts. Of course my hope is that = this was an anomaly, but will stay aware that it did happen.=20 However the biggest problems follows. When the engine started it was = running a little fast, but did not seem too bad and I throttled back and = it slowed a bit. When I noticed that the monitor was not processing data = I grabbed the mixture knob and turned it to slow the engine and to see = if it made any difference. Damn, the mixture knob was not doing = ANYTHING. NOTHING. Turning it from left to right made no difference. = Damnit. I cut the fuel at this point, too many issues. BTW, the prime = function, cold start switch and A/B inputs all seemed to work and would = make a difference when operated. But not the mixture knob. After letting the engine cool a while (the temps did rise pretty fast = per my hand held laser temp gage and I was pushing 220 after several = minutes on a hot/humid Houston summer day) I restarted to see if the = engine monitor was working. It was. However, the mixture know was not. = I re-checked the other inputs and they all worked. The engine was = running pretty rough......gee, the mixture actually makes a difference = . After shut down I disconnected the batteries (I have installed master = battery cut-offs) and then the control module and ECU and checked the = wires between the two. This was just a quick continuity check and the = wire was good. I then took a meter and in my non electrician mode = attempted to check the actual knob. I place leads on the two prongs = that seem to be soldered to the control board and turned the knob. The = numbers changed up and down as expected when I turned the know....so it = seems that the knob itself is not the culprit, and the wire seems ok. = What else should I check and/or try? I kinda need the mixture control = to work.=20 Is there a way to test to to test to determine if this knob is actually = doing anything when the engine is not running?????? Of course my timing sucks as Tracy is about to hit Colorado.. So any = solutions y'all may be able to provide should prove especially useful. I anxiously await y'alls response. =20 Maybe I should just go ride my loud motorcycle to think thinks through. = Thanks again. All the best, Chris Barber Houston ------=_NextPart_000_1676_01C8CAEF.93FE4C10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ahhh, the joys of engine development. = After=20 fiddling with getting the timing set (thanks to y'all for this = info) I was=20 able to start my new engine.  I ran it for a few minutes while = checking for=20 leaks etc.  I was thrilled it started=20 again.....however........
 
I found one leak coming from the top of = the engine=20 where I had a heater hose inlet sealed off.  It was tapped out = earlier but=20 only clamped closed so I installed a bolt with some sealant on it and = recovered=20 it with a end hose piece and clamped it shut.  This proved a better = choice.
 
The larger concerns are this.  = When the engine=20 started the Engine Monitor was on, and I kept a diligent eye on it. = After a=20 couple of glances at it in the cabin while looking at the engine I = realized that=20 the monitor was not "monitoring".  I grabbed my handheld = laser=20 temp monitor and pointed it at the engine and temp was still = ok. =20 At first I just noticed the RPM was not regersting (my first thought was = I was=20 gonna get the NOP signal), then that the temp was not = moving.  After=20 shut down, I turned the monitor off and back on and instantly the = monitor=20 started working again.  Hmmmmmm.  The monitor was = mistakenly left=20 on overnight and I am guessing it "froze up" during this time, but I = would have=20 not thought leaving it on would have done this.  It also worked on = my three=20 subsequent short starts. Of course my hope is that this was=20 an anomaly, but will stay aware that it did = happen. 
 
However the biggest problems follows. = When the=20 engine started it was running a little fast, but did not seem too bad = and I=20 throttled back and it slowed a bit. When I noticed that the monitor = was not=20 processing data I grabbed the mixture knob and turned it to slow = the engine=20 and to see if it made any difference.  Damn, the mixture knob was = not doing=20 ANYTHING.  NOTHING.  Turning it from left to right made = no=20 difference.   Damnit.  I cut the fuel at this point, = too=20 many issues.  BTW, the prime function, cold start switch and=20 A/B inputs all seemed to work and would make a difference when=20 operated.  But not the mixture knob.
 
After letting the engine cool = a while=20 (the temps did rise pretty fast per my hand held laser temp = gage and I=20 was pushing 220 after several minutes on a hot/humid Houston summer day) = I=20 restarted to see if the engine monitor was working.  It was. = However,=20 the mixture know was not.  I re-checked the other inputs = and they=20 all worked.  The engine was running pretty rough......gee, the = mixture=20 actually makes a difference <g>.
 
After shut down I disconnected the = batteries=20 (I have installed master battery cut-offs) and then = the control=20 module and ECU and checked the wires between the two.  This was = just a=20 quick continuity check and the wire was good.  I then took a meter = and in=20 my non electrician mode attempted to check the actual knob.  I = place=20 leads on the two prongs that seem to be soldered to the control = board and=20 turned the knob.  The numbers changed up and down as expected when = I turned=20 the know....so it seems that the knob itself is not the culprit, and the = wire=20 seems ok.  What else should I check and/or try?  I kinda need = the=20 mixture control to work.
 
Is there a way to test to to test to = determine if=20 this knob is actually doing anything when the engine is not=20 running??????
 
Of course my timing sucks as Tracy is = about to hit=20 Colorado..  So any solutions y'all may be able to provide should = prove=20 especially useful.
 
I anxiously await y'alls = response. =20
 
Maybe I should just go ride my loud = motorcycle to=20 think thinks through. <g>
 
Thanks again.
 
All the best,
 
Chris Barber
Houston
 
 
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