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Yes, Steve, I would think pulling a CB for the injectors should disable a set, so you might try that.
The mode 1 Injector simulation goes like this.
Turn off power to your pumps, turn on power to you EC2 and injectors. Turn you mode switch to mode 1 and push the program store button. The EC2 will generate pulses to the injectors equivalent to the engine running at around 4000 rpm. You can definitely hear the injectors clicking away madly (that's the reason you want the fuel pumps off or you will truly flood the engine - don't ask me how I know)
You get out the simulation mode by switching to a different mode or turning off the power to the EC2.
Similarly with the ignition testing. Turn your mode selector to mode 8 and press the program store button. It should trigger both ignition modules until turned off.
One thing to be careful of is when using the ignition simulation, it is possible to fire off any combustible mixture you might have in the chamber. I have notice the engine fire and the blade swing - so if you had a lot of fuel in your intake manifold (after say flooding the engine) it might be theoretically possible for the engine to fire and suck in sufficient fuel to turn the blades over several times. So as always treat a prop like its running (even when it isn't {:>))
The safer way would be to test your ignition BEFORE you test your injectors.
These simulation modes only work when the engine is NOT running.
Yes, hard to tell about compression without an expensive Mazda Shop tester. But, I have noticed that if there is a compression problem you will normally see things bouncing around the same. If you notice some differences (especially between the rotors) by the needle swing - it could indicate a problem.
Hope some of this helps you get to the root of the problem. I agree with Al and Bob, the turbo will have no effect on your start up. Now if ran too much boost that could possibly damage seals and therefore lower compression, but I know you are very conservative about boost.
ED
----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Brooks" <cozy4pilot@gmail.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:48 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Hard Starting
Hi Ed,
Some very good tips. Unfortunately I did not install the injector switches.
I viewed that as another failure point. I did wire my injector power on
separate breakers though, so there may be an option there.
Compression seems to be good, with even pops as I rotate through the prop.
I'm not sure about the reading though. My compression gauge doesn't seem to
be working correctly as far as holding the peak compression. Watching the
needle bounce looks consistent on each pulse, but since all of my historical
data was on peak hold, it doesn't tell me much. The little needle valve
seems to be the issue. I tried replacing it with on from AutoZone, but it
was destroyed on the first test.
On the injector test, and ignition test, I'm not sure that I have those
features, or if I do, I'm not sure how to get in the test mode. I take
another look at my manual, but I know that the software had been updated
since I bought the EC2. About 18 months ago, I believe.
Regards,
Steve Brooks
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 10:12 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Hard Starting
Steve, the first thing I would do is:
1. Check that the EC2 injector simulation mode (mode1) is firing all the
injectors
2. Check that the EC2 Ignition Simulation mode (mode8) is firing all the
plugs
I don't know if this could possibly be the case with you, but since you were
doing some electrical work, I'll suggest it anyway.
Turn off one set of your injectors and try the mixture control. If you find
the mixture control is not acting as before, the system could be in "cold
start" mode. I damaged the EC2 once by trying to plug in an electrical
device to interface with the EC2. The engine would run on all four
injectors (and then poorly at low rpm) if I turned the mixture max lean
(CCW), however, it seem to function properly with one pair of injectors
turned off.
Later Tracy discovered that I had fried the B controller and had caused the
A controller to go into "cold start" mode. That caused too much fuel flow
with 4 injectors, but when I cut out one pair, then the mixture controlled
exercised its normal control
So you might just turn off one pair and see (I'd recommend turning off your
secondary).
If that does not seem to help, I think the next thing I would check is the
compression of my rotors. If for some reason you have some faces with low
compression, that can hinder starting.
Hope this helps
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Brooks" <cozy4pilot@gmail.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 8:39 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Hard Starting
I have an issue all of the sudden with my 13B Turbo not wanting to start.
It will fire occasionally, but just won't start running.
If I am persistent enough (and have enough battery), It will finally
start,
but does not run well. Seems to have a miss in it. It runs better if I
turn
the mixture to lean, in fact, I can turn the mixture all the way counter
clock wise. I think that it used to die when I would do that. When I
switch to controller B, it runs better for a few seconds, and then goes
back
to missing. It doesn't start any easier on controller B either.
I haven't done a lot of troubleshooting on it yet, but wondered if anyone
has had a similar issue. I did replace the spark plugs, but that didn't
seem
to help any. I still have the stock turbo on it, so, maybe the turbo is
starting to go. It also started this problem, after I fixed a problem
with
the starter. My Cessna ignition switch got some water in it and it got to
where it wouldn't engage the starter. I took it apart, and cleaned all of
the contacts to fix it. I have that switch also wired to do the coil test
when you select mag1 or mag2 on the switch. The coil test only works on
controller B though, so I don't think that would affect controller A.
I guess that maybe my next step is to verify that I'm getting spark on all
plugs, and then maybe try removing the plumbing to the throttle body, and
try starting it then. That should verify if my turbo is failing, and
restricting air flow.
Steve Brooks
Cozy MKIV 13B Turbo
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