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Bill, looking at your radiator you should be able to easily tell if you have any significant trapped air by feeling the sides tanks of your radiator. If it is equally hot all the way from bottom to top when you touch or put a thermometer to it, then its likely most of the air has been removed. If there is a sharp change in temp at any point up the tank then that indicates air in the tank. I assume the coolant flow in you radiator core entering in the bottom and out through the top black hose. Since it appears that the black hose coming out of the top of your radiator is at a higher elevation than your engine block, then there is a likelihood of air being trapped in the top of your radiator. But, by doing the temp check (up both sides), you can pretty well tell if that is the case or not.

The thing that gets my attention here, is that the air path through you core is somewhat impeded . The engine block in front and the firewall behind your core clearly does not lead to a clean smooth flow. Now that may still be OK (although not optimum in my opinion) as long as the rest of the cowl is very well sealed so that the air is forced to exit through the radiator core. But it there are any leaks any where in the cowl (such as out the back of the spinner, around exhaust tubes, gear rods, etc) then they can (depending on extend) seriously hamper trying to get the air to flow through the radiator.

Not saying that is the cause of your temp problems, but it certainly wouldn't help.

But, given the size of your core, I am still a bit surprised that it is not cooling at idle. Did you do the test runs with the cowl off or the cowl on (or both)?

----- Original Message -----

From: Bill Bradburry

To: Rotary motors in aircraft

Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 11:42 AM

Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water Pressure

Ok, I recently upgraded my computer to Vista and had to download some software to get my camera to talk to it…So here are some pictures of my cooling install

Notice the bypass hole that you guys are talking about needing to plug. This hole is in the housing which has been removed, so it is not a player.

The little rag you see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking for a leak. (I have one!)

The red wire is the air temp sensor for the air after the radiator. It is on top of the fan.

Hoses are 1 ¼” The temperature sensor was moved from the left side of the inlet to the top

But is reading temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. (coolest place)

My overflow catch can. I will be replacing this with a pressurized on as per Lynn’s suggestions in a previous post in order to introduce

An air cushion above the liquid under pressure so it will not be “locked”.

I am planning to try and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a leaf blower in addition to the prop blast and the small fan to see if an increase in

Air flowing will help. I haven’t checked the sides of the radiator yet as I have been alone when running the engine….

All inputs appreciated. I already know some things should be changed, so don’t hold back with the suggestions.

Thanks,

Bill B

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