X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.120] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.12) with ESMTP id 2372790 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 06 Oct 2007 16:20:34 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.120; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from edward2 ([24.74.103.61]) by cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com with SMTP id <20071006201955.LEOU2011.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@edward2> for ; Sat, 6 Oct 2007 20:19:55 +0000 Message-ID: <003401c80856$4c3ffa10$2402a8c0@edward2> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water Pressure Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 16:20:11 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0031_01C80834.C4EB84B0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.3138 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3138 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C80834.C4EB84B0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Bill, looking at your radiator you should be able to easily tell if you = have any significant trapped air by feeling the sides tanks of your = radiator. If it is equally hot all the way from bottom to top when you = touch or put a thermometer to it, then its likely most of the air has = been removed. If there is a sharp change in temp at any point up the = tank then that indicates air in the tank. I assume the coolant flow in = you radiator core entering in the bottom and out through the top black = hose. Since it appears that the black hose coming out of the top of = your radiator is at a higher elevation than your engine block, then = there is a likelihood of air being trapped in the top of your radiator. = But, by doing the temp check (up both sides), you can pretty well tell = if that is the case or not. The thing that gets my attention here, is that the air path through you = core is somewhat impeded . The engine block in front and the firewall = behind your core clearly does not lead to a clean smooth flow. Now that = may still be OK (although not optimum in my opinion) as long as the = rest of the cowl is very well sealed so that the air is forced to exit = through the radiator core. But it there are any leaks any where in the = cowl (such as out the back of the spinner, around exhaust tubes, gear = rods, etc) then they can (depending on extend) seriously hamper trying = to get the air to flow through the radiator. Not saying that is the cause of your temp problems, but it certainly = wouldn't help. But, given the size of your core, I am still a bit surprised that it is = not cooling at idle. Did you do the test runs with the cowl off or the = cowl on (or both)? Ed ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Bill Bradburry=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 11:42 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water Pressure Ok, I recently upgraded my computer to Vista and had to download some = software to get my camera to talk to it.So here are some pictures of my = cooling install =20 Notice the bypass hole that you guys are talking about needing to = plug. This hole is in the housing which has been removed, so it is not = a player. The little rag you see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking = for a leak. (I have one!) =20 The red wire is the air temp sensor for the air after the radiator. = It is on top of the fan. Hoses are 1 =BC" The temperature sensor was moved from the left side = of the inlet to the top But is reading temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. = (coolest place) =20 My overflow catch can. I will be replacing this with a pressurized on = as per Lynn's suggestions in a previous post in order to introduce=20 An air cushion above the liquid under pressure so it will not be = "locked". =20 I am planning to try and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a = leaf blower in addition to the prop blast and the small fan to see if an = increase in=20 Air flowing will help. I haven't checked the sides of the radiator = yet as I have been alone when running the engine.. All inputs appreciated. I already know some things should be changed, = so don't hold back with the suggestions. =20 Thanks, Bill B =20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: = http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C80834.C4EB84B0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Bill, looking at your radiator you should be = able to=20 easily tell if you have any significant trapped air by feeling the sides = tanks=20 of your radiator.  If it is equally hot all the way from bottom to = top when=20 you touch or put a thermometer to it, then its likely most of the air = has been=20 removed.  If there is a sharp change in temp at any point up the = tank then=20 that indicates air in the tank.  I assume the coolant flow in you = radiator=20 core entering in the bottom and out through the top black hose.  = Since it=20 appears that the black hose coming out of the top of your radiator is at = a=20 higher elevation than your engine block, then there is a likelihood of = air being=20 trapped in the top of your radiator.  But, by doing the temp check = (up both=20 sides), you can pretty well tell if that is the case or = not.
 
The thing that gets my attention here, is that = the air=20 path through you core is somewhat impeded .  The engine block in = front and=20 the firewall behind your core clearly does not lead to a clean smooth=20 flow.  Now that may still be OK (although not optimum in my = opinion)=20  as long as the rest of the cowl is very well sealed so that the = air is=20 forced to exit through the radiator core.  But it there are any = leaks any=20 where in the cowl (such as out the back of the spinner, around exhaust = tubes,=20 gear rods, etc) then they can (depending on extend) seriously hamper = trying to=20 get the air to flow through the radiator.
 
Not saying that is the cause of your temp = problems, but it=20 certainly wouldn't help.
 
But, given the size of your core, I am still a = bit=20 surprised that it is not cooling at idle.  Did you do the =  test runs=20 with the cowl off or the cowl on (or both)?
 
Ed
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Bill=20 Bradburry
Sent: Saturday, October 06, = 2007 11:42=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant = Water=20 Pressure

Ok, I = recently=20 upgraded my computer to Vista and = had to=20 download some software to get my camera to talk to it=85So here are = some=20 pictures of my cooling install

 

Notice the = bypass=20 hole that you guys are talking about needing to plug.  This hole = is in=20 the housing which has been removed, so it is not a=20 player.

The little = rag you=20 see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking for a leak. (I have = one!)

 

The red = wire is the=20 air temp sensor for the air after the radiator.  It is on top of = the=20 fan.

Hoses are 1 = =BC=94 =20 The temperature sensor was moved from the left side of the inlet to = the=20 top

But is = reading=20 temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. (coolest=20 place)

 

My overflow = catch=20 can.  I will be replacing this with a pressurized on as per = Lynn=92s = suggestions in a=20 previous post in order to introduce

An air = cushion above=20 the liquid under pressure so it will not be=20 =93locked=94.

 

I am = planning to try=20 and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a leaf blower in = addition to=20 the prop blast and the small fan to see if an increase in=20

Air flowing = will=20 help.  I haven=92t checked the sides of the radiator yet as I = have been=20 alone when running the engine=85.

All inputs=20 appreciated.  I already know some things should be changed, so = don=92t hold=20 back with the suggestions.

 

Thanks,

Bill=20 B

 

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