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From: "Christopher Barber" <CBarber@TexasAttorney.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: EM2/EC2 question/update/vent/etc
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:01:42 -0600
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Thanks Bob....and the rest of y'all.

Due to some training I have on my regular days off of Monday and Tuesday, I
happen to be off tomorrow, Sunday, and I will see what I can do.

The pins I have are the B&C with little colored bands around the end where
the wire go in.  I am using 20 AWG wire and using the little self
ratcheting, round headed crimp tool that has four evenly spaced prongs that
come together to evenly crimp the  pin.

I shall try again and continue to learn as I go.

I am guessing...well, using my base common sense, that the weird EM display
issues scream bad wiring. Correct?

I can't tell ya how much I enjoy and appreciate y'all being a big part of my
project.  Thanks.

All the best,

Chris

Christopher Barber
Attorney and Counselor at Law
5110 Bissonnet, No 418
Bellaire, Texas 77401

Serving the Needs of Senior Texans

281-464-LAWS (5297)
281-754-4168 Fax
www.TexasAttorney.net

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
Behalf Of Bob White
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 4:31 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: EM2/EC2 question/update/vent/etc


Hi Chris,

If you are using the right crimp tool and the proper wire size for the
pins, you should have good results.  The solder connectors would be a
real challenge to do a good job in place.  Even with the crimp pins,
it's real easy to slip the pin into the wrong hole.  NOTE:  I just saw
Rusty's post, now I'm not sure yours are the right pins although I
don't see any others types on B&C. The ones Rust linked to are good.

FWIW, I use the AMP series 109 connectors, page 1023 on the Mouser
catalog.  The B&C crimp tool works well with those pins.  It makes a 4
point crimp and ratchets to be sure enough force is applied.  Don't
over do it.  As soon as the ratchet releases, that's enough.  Wow! It
looks like the price of the pins has gone from 27 cents in the catalog
to 42 cents online.  These particular connectors have small tabs that
wraps around near the mounting holes to hold the two halves together.
These tabs interfere with the cheap plastic backshells.  I cut a notch
out of the backshells with an Xacto knife so that the backshells will
slip on without interference.  You might check your connectors to see
if they have that problem.  It might make seating the connector
properly more difficult.

For the strain relief, throw away that metal clamp that comes with the
backshell.  They can very easily cut thru the insulation.  Use Bob
Nuckolls technique as shown at http://tinyurl.com/2sh38w and
http://tinyurl.com/2tzomr using silicone self adhesive tape.  Works
great.

Bob W.


On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 14:31:13 -0600
"Christopher Barber" <CBarber@TexasAttorney.net> wrote:

> I am using the "barreled crimped D-sub connectors" that I purchased from
> B&C.  Heck, I don't have enough hands to use those pressed steal types.
> Maybe I will try the soldered ones, but my soldering skills are mediocre
at
> best...but improving <g>.
>
> Thanks for the feedback.
>
> All the best,
>
> Chris
>
> Christopher Barber
> Attorney and Counselor at Law
> 5110 Bissonnet, No 418
> Bellaire, Texas 77401
>
> Serving the Needs of Senior Texans
>
> 281-464-LAWS (5297)
> 281-754-4168 Fax
> www.TexasAttorney.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On
> Behalf Of Bob White
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:22 AM
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: EM2/EC2 question/update/vent/etc
>
>
> Hi Chris,
>
> Are you using solder pin or crimp pin connectors?
>
> Bob W.
>
>
> On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 10:17:26 -0600
> "Christopher Barber" <CBarber@TexasAttorney.net> wrote:
>
> > This may be more of a vent than a real question.  However, if anyone has
> > insight, I am willing to listen.  Also, this is NOT a complaint about
the
> > RWS products.  This IS an admission to my continuing developing skills
(or
> > lack there of) of wire systems and electrical troubleshooting.  Tracy
has
> > always been helpful and willing to provide even basic information.  I
post
> > here first to get the group wisdom and to try to spare Tracy the time as
I
> > am sure that following his travels, he is currently overwhelmed with
work
> > and emails....even though he and Laura have been great to respond to
> > previous and current concerns previous to this one.  Gee, he is forgoing
> OSH
> > where his presence can provide for the general good of the rotary
> community.
> > Even though it is NOT prevalent on this list, sometimes expressing
trouble
> > shooting and/or proof of concept questions/concepts/experiences etc.
some
> > take the opportunity to go "see, that doesn't work" or makes the yet
> > uninitiated nervous without realizing that the ability to share online
> > OPENLY is one of the best safety devices we've got.
> >
> > Anyway, My engine is/was running much better now that I have plugged
some
> > intake leaks.  The auto tune seems to be playing nice.  However,
following
> a
> > short engine run two days ago, I went to inspect the engine (FWB in my
> Velo)
> > and when I returned to the cabin, the EM2 was flickering.....then it
> seemed
> > to set itself in the calibration mode (and the bottom row of reading are
> > flickering and fading periodically).  I would try to clear it by hitting
> > abort and it would flash the main screen for about a second and then
> return
> > to the calibration mode, showing "coolant pressure".  Within the
> calibration
> > mode, the values/modes will change when I press the control buttons as
> they
> > should, however, when I try to get it to the main screen, it goes back
to
> > the calibration mode. My first thought was a bad/sticking switch/es.  So
I
> > replaced ALL four switches to no avail, checked the grounds and
continuity
> > of the wires.  No joy.  Seems too, the being in this mode "calibrated"
my
> > coolant temperature to zero (doh).
> >
> > When I started the engine (of course one of the easiest starts to date)
in
> > this mode, the engine was surging in a rhythmic pattern, even though
> pretty
> > smoothly.
> >
> > I am a thinkin' that tonight I will re-terminated all the d-sub pins.
> >
> > Oh well, back to patrol....and then to the hangar (following a brief
> detour,
> > hopefully brief, to the big Houston dog show to support Jana and the
dogs
> > she is showing.  This is her big hobby and she is usually good about
> > supporting the plane)
> >
> > Thanks.  Thoughts are greatly appreciated.
> >
> > All the best,
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > Christopher Barber
> > Attorney and Counselor at Law
> > 5110 Bissonnet, No 418
> > Bellaire, Texas 77401
> >
> > Serving the Needs of Senior Texans
> >
> > 281-464-LAWS (5297)
> > 281-754-4168 Fax
> > www.TexasAttorney.net
> >
> >
> > --
> > Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> > Archive and UnSub:
> http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>
>
> --
> N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
> 3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
> Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/
>
> --
> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> Archive and UnSub:
> http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>
>
> --
> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> Archive and UnSub:
http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


--
N93BD - Rotary Powered BD-4 - http://www.bob-white.com
3.8 Hours Total Time and holding
Cables for your rotary installation - http://www.roblinphoto.com/shop/

--
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