Return-Path: Received: from mtiwmhc13.worldnet.att.net ([204.127.131.117] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.5) with ESMTP id 2626425 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 06 Oct 2003 19:11:56 -0400 Received: from unknown (161.birmingham-06-07rs.al.dial-access.att.net[12.86.90.161]) by mtiwmhc13.worldnet.att.net (mtiwmhc13) with SMTP id <20031006231148113007p0gpe>; Mon, 6 Oct 2003 23:11:48 +0000 Message-ID: <001401c38c5f$08893f60$a15a560c@unknown> From: "Michael D. Callahan" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Mill/Lathe tools Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2003 18:10:24 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C38C35.1D601FA0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C38C35.1D601FA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Richard, Want to speed up your lathe making process? Try the lost styrofoam = technique. You just carve the part you want (allowing for shrinkage) out = of blue foam (yup, same stuff we build Vari-Ezes and the like out of) or = even the white bead foam (not quite as fine a surface finish) and make a = pouring sprue out of foam. You use a little clay flowerpot with the = bottom knocked out for a funnel, just make sure the sprue comes through = the bottom of the pot, or the pot is securely seated on the sprue. You = bed the whole works in a 5 gal bucket of DRY!!! sugar-fine sand. Melt = aluminum and pour. The foam burns up as the aluminum hits it, but stays long enough to = hold the shape in the sand. Venting is handled by the sand, so it will = NEVER spit back or leave blow holes as long as the sand is DRY. A = completely reducing atmoshpere is created by the burning foam , so the = surface finish is excellent. If you can work the sand in, you don't even = need a core, as you will not have to take the mold apart to get the = pattern out of the mold. Ten or fifteen minutes after pouring, you pull = out the part, perfectly replicated (down to sanding scratches in the = foam). I was absolutely astonished with the ease of it, and the = spectacular results, on my first try. The only drawback is that you get one part per pattern. Are you = making more than one lathe?;-) Gingery's process certainly teaches a lot = about patternmaking, but this is a LOT faster and easier. I have used it = several times with great success. I have also done green sand molding. = This is MUCH less work. I have a 20gal garbage can Gingery-style furnace and a crucible made = of 6" pipe. It burns about 15lbs of cahrcoal per run, I can liquefy = about 40lbs of aluminum at a whack, and it will melt that 40lbs in about = 25 mins......yeah, I do this, too. Nothing like a four-foot flame = standing out the top of the furnace at night;-) I am about to build a = cupola out of two 20gal grease drums so I can start melting iron. It'll = run about a hundred pounds an hour. BTW, if you are serious about that little 6x18 Craftsman/Atlas = lathe, I have two that can be made into one really nice machine. This = includes a steady rest, follow rest, three and four-jaw chucks, = pulleys/belt tensioner (2), change gears, and some other stuff. Let me = know if you want them. I'll make you a GOOD deal. Mike C. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C38C35.1D601FA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Richard,
    Want to speed up your lathe = making process?=20 Try the lost styrofoam technique. You just carve the part you want = (allowing for=20 shrinkage) out of blue foam (yup, same stuff we build Vari-Ezes and = the=20 like out of) or even the white bead foam (not quite as fine a surface = finish)=20 and make a pouring sprue out of foam. You use a little clay = flowerpot with=20 the bottom knocked out for a funnel, just make sure the sprue comes = through the=20 bottom of the pot, or the pot is securely seated on the sprue. You bed = the whole=20 works in a 5 gal bucket of DRY!!! sugar-fine sand. Melt aluminum and=20 pour.
    The foam burns up as the aluminum = hits it,=20 but stays long enough to hold the shape in the sand. Venting is handled = by the=20 sand, so it will NEVER spit back or leave blow holes as long as the sand = is DRY.=20 A completely reducing atmoshpere is created by the burning foam , so the = surface=20 finish is excellent. If you can work the sand in, you don't even need a = core, as=20 you will not have to take the mold apart to get the pattern out of the = mold. Ten=20 or fifteen minutes after pouring, you pull out the part, perfectly=20 replicated (down to sanding scratches in the foam). I was absolutely = astonished=20 with the ease of it, and the spectacular results, on my first = try.
    The only drawback is that you get = one part=20 per pattern. Are you making more than one lathe?;-) Gingery's process = certainly=20 teaches a lot about patternmaking, but this is a LOT faster and easier. = I have=20 used it several times with great success. I have also done green sand = molding.=20 This is MUCH less work.
    I have a 20gal garbage can = Gingery-style=20 furnace and a crucible made of 6" pipe. It burns about 15lbs of cahrcoal = per=20 run, I can liquefy about 40lbs of aluminum at a whack, and it will melt = that=20 40lbs in about 25 mins......yeah, I do this, too. Nothing like a=20 four-foot flame standing out the top of the furnace at night;-) I = am about=20 to build a cupola out of two 20gal grease drums so I can start melting = iron.=20 It'll run about a hundred pounds an hour.
    BTW, if you are serious about = that little=20 6x18 Craftsman/Atlas lathe, I have two that can be made into one really = nice=20 machine. This includes a steady rest, follow rest, three and four-jaw = chucks,=20 pulleys/belt tensioner (2), change gears, and some other stuff. Let me = know if=20 you want them. I'll make you a GOOD deal. Mike = C.
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